https://www.marcuspaladino.com/france daily 0.75 2025-02-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542313331263-BQJTUO91Z8C1DGOUIZZT/20161022-IMG_1736.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054891415-EKXGU3VGFE6VS6Y7XXVR/20161022-IMG_1562.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054913521-R8A5VQJQFWDC5MW6O5IJ/20161025-IMG_4788.jpg France We assumed France would be an easy way to score countless hollow barrels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1541804312894-68Q91LHIKCI9PP69EVW1/20171106-IMG_3532.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054892199-6Z1E719HXRWMAKJB2RWF/20161022-IMG_1044.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054889303-9VGXAUJYHVOTU2OH2SS7/20161022-IMG_1208.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054901320-9X4MO5LP464HGQD4FG5J/20161023-IMG_2722.jpg France What we found was ourselves scattered and lost, standing around the quiet streets of Capbreton in the middle of the first night. Pete Devries is triple checking his emails, while Noah Cohen is struggling to get the wifi in our rental car to cooperate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054896099-RLQIO3V0QVF13EV4OA35/20161023-IMG_2753.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054898580-Q99S1BDMQKZKVVONMCNH/20161023-IMG_3190.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054893612-CAI480JCLJT7553LYW58/20161022-IMG_1736.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054908338-QBPTWBAU7RYZKO5SJ9U8/20161024-IMG_3745.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054907571-UGE8X09WWT16S4JKC0P0/20161024-IMG_3770.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054910788-PYGHGLJOXJG96A3BALOF/20161025-IMG_5589.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054913292-2GYETGW82TYQQHLAJBJ1/20161026-IMG_6974.jpg France There must have been a miscommunication that was lost in translation while organizing a place to stay for our two weeks in France. That can happen when you buy plane tickets the day before departure. Jet lagged and frustrated, we drove around blind and found a room at the only hotel open this late. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054917600-2AJ3C9DVW2OQFIGUXYR7/20161027-IMG_7023.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054916627-4DMUM31QCWMJS4TUEIHZ/20161028-IMG_8041.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054965877-YGHR76AZLS68RREZ8X35/20161101-IMG_3789.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054930836-U5RDQX72Y05JH4AT9FMV/20161030-IMG_0779.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054919547-UGGREOGWR7RGHHQDJYVU/20161028-IMG_8627.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054919457-M3G80V5CI2DX4N9A2JDM/20161028-IMG_8743.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054926529-LHUWX4L75UEY8YN2PFQ6/20161029-IMG_0204.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054922436-0T4Z500DJZQ8TXQ78ZP1/20161029-IMG_8897.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054926245-ROKJKJFSITL0N974W078/20161029-IMG_9434.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054940686-001RJQFRI41S4ZNOP23T/20161030-IMG_2218.jpg France Turns out our arranged home was anything but arranged, and the owner was 900km away. Most of the following day was spent getting laughed out of vacation rental offices for not having a reservation. By the time we got to inhale after our sigh of relief, wetsuits were on and boards were waxed. The forecast was still promising, solid swell with long period and strong offshore winds, a perfect recipe for the beach breaks of Hossegor. We assumed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054940202-JBM95BYHHU0RGE0U5XFB/20161030-IMG_1990.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054935644-VDRAHA1Z9QTXO2WPWISR/20161030-IMG_1470.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054935632-6JQ7AVPHJ4N2MGC3EQQZ/20161030-IMG_1656.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054947539-RZXQ6D8WB1RNVIKPCXJ6/20161031-IMG_3060.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054944872-IJG82775TZ7VY1J97UTK/20161031-IMG_2412.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054949361-6QIS9K6FYOJG1ZPEVMX2/20161031-IMG_3114.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054967526-QZ3940FF0DTDFKI2FCEO/20161031-IMG_3350.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054944342-FOL75ZTMBQ5NXACQ3JS3/20161031-IMG_2495.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054948077-Q9UU5L970SMQ51ODSAKO/20161031-IMG_2536.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054969576-MRLAYMBGNPIKDEFOJMEP/20161101-IMG_4330.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054970421-LBPWXGTZGHL2FA6E0JBP/20161101-IMG_4844.jpg France https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542054972784-JTUFZYB0DJXSWXVUR3F5/20161102-IMG_5258.jpg France Various images from this trip were published with Surfline. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/hawaii daily 0.75 2025-02-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542313390971-VTVV7X1RUIJCTGN7YQOE/20171130-IMG_0669.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049365017-46J22ZLXEH82DSIPGU5H/20171129-IMG_9085.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049352084-XAQYGDAORCHSXP0TH09K/20171127-IMG_5639.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049325366-J0LNDF5XQ3ZDWN2S8DZ4/20171125-IMG_3440.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049382019-MBAXACJFTYG86WS0Q1VU/20171130-IMG_1755.jpg Hawaii Taking a set on the head was nothing new. I was fairly used to swimming in maxed out beaches back home and powerful slabs along the coast, but never in my life had I ever felt such intense energy like this. The North Shore has been known to make an example out of even the most experienced watermen. Time continued to pass and I wondered exactly when the ocean was planning on letting me go. I couldn’t tell which way was up. When I opened my eyes, all I saw was black. This was concerning, then I hit the bottom of the ocean floor. Thankfully the recent string of North swells had piled up plenty of sand to soften the impact. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1541804496038-FRRKQC6VFH65UJUV42XQ/20171106-IMG_3169.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049317646-7KM426BQVILYS4ZT6OQU/20171125-IMG_1807.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049318174-V5YDQ4K0G2Y1O8ZHI9CV/20171125-IMG_2362.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049325872-GFFEY9ANOLOX881JJ8J6/20171125-IMG_3098.jpg Hawaii I was running out of breath, but was relieved to at least feel something limit my descent. I firmly planted my feet and pushed upwards, only to be rejected and sent right back to where I’d started. I regrouped and attempted my projection to the surface once more, but was denied again. Beat by beat my heart was pounding harder. The air was starting to escape my nostrils, bubble by bubble. I frantically pushed my fins away from the sand and started kicking as hard as could, only to continuously graze the toe-edge of my flippers repeatedly, as if completely anchored. I fought to swim vertically and was about to reach my lung capacity. Then, all of a sudden, a very real, unanticipated thought occurred. I’ll never forget the feeling of genuine curiosity and calmness it provoked. Without fear, panic, sadness, or anger, I subconsciously thought the most honest question anyone can ask themselves, “is this how I’m going to die?” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542315591213-L8OFZ1FJZDZ9XM7YQHJC/20171125-IMG_3553.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049320638-66X7BKPRP1ZU96WI7M44/20171125-IMG_3101.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049379780-183OMXYH4JTP3K6ZVDWO/20171130-IMG_0553.jpg Hawaii One week earlier, in the middle of the night, I was in the back of a cab at the Honolulu airport trying to recall all of Mike Brophy’s half asleep instructions on how to find the RVCA house. Through the poor service of my Canadian cell phone cutting in and out I remember hearing "just let yourself in." As if a loyal friend or family member, I was granted permission to make myself at home in a place I’d never been, surrounded by people I’d even never met. A few hours later I woke up on the couch to the sound of waves detonating on the beach, I stumbled over to the sliding glass door and pressed my face against it and let my eyes adjust. The world famous Off The Wall came into focus straight out front, steps away from the backyard. I was situated dead centre of the Seven Mile Miracle, all while simply standing in the living room in my underwear. “You get in late?” I had been startled to find a fellow underwear dwelling early riser, investigating me while I had been admiring his everyday view. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049341560-2ASYW7F5TAG53IU9697A/20171126-IMG_5201.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049328954-MM256WHHF48FPT1W92L1/20171126-IMG_4364.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049331094-1U14XJOLDEDAZX6Y1RXY/20171126-IMG_4597.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049339440-QG3C3WNBUQ20ULFZS3VY/20171126-IMG_4951.jpg Hawaii “Back in the 60’s I use to draw a circle in the sand around photographers and say ‘You see this line? Do not cross it. I’ll bring you food, I’ll bring you beer, just keep shooting,” Herbie Fletcher explained as we drank our morning coffee together. He would ask trivia-like questions, putting my surf history knowledge to the test. As a Canadian, I don’t think he actually anticipated a correct answer from me, nor did I ever end up giving him one. But he would enthusiastically explain to me about the culture his generation created for us and the impact his family had on our sport. I use to think that I knew enough about the history of surfing, the North Shore and the Fletcher family. That is, until I sat down with the man himself and had him explain it to me as thoroughly as he did. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049351795-7ZGJMUYFDTITSH3TQ5BI/20171128-IMG_6496.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049332722-4VL9DX3LUX0C5CQ1IB08/20171126-IMG_4821.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542312268146-Q8Q2AWGVS7BQ8K1HBNF6/20171129-187A9303.jpg Hawaii RVCA is more than a brand, it’s a family. Uniquely sponsoring all walks of life; Surfers (shortboard, longboard and everything in-between), skateboarders, body surfers, photographers, musicians, graffiti artists, MMA & Jiu Jitsu fighters, gourmet chefs, the Hawaiian Water Patrol and iconic legends like Herbie. Their presence in Oahu is undeniable, as they spend more than six weeks every winter bringing all of these completely separate advocates together to bond and get to know each other. Masters of their own universe, misfits in another. Outcasts who would never find each other running in the same social circles, living under one roof in one of the most beautiful places in the world. A delicate balance of opposites. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049336299-2G2IKKLFUF5DYHWY0TPV/20171126-IMG_5037.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049349004-Q6HK8OLJNF1BYS7AW7QT/20171128-IMG_6383.jpg Hawaii The television got completely harassed with profanity and applause, as we watched our fellow advocate Ricardo Christie battle for his professional competitive life at Sunset Beach. Exhaling with him on every maneuver, as if we were surfing with him at that very moment. We were opinionated with critique for the judges and other competitors wave quality in comparison, but Ric fell short in the final minutes and just like that, his QS year came to a close. Coming short of re-qualifying for the CT, after falling off ‘The Dream Tour’ last season. He joined us on the porch when he returned from the contest site, and we all gathered to acknowledge his presence. He was greeted with gestures of embrace but no words were said, none were needed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049339146-NT937ZGFVD6Q35T1XBCT/20171126-IMG_5149.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049343780-BCV567XQNMTR8AJ0VKL3/20171127-IMG_6029.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049346126-6DCU83HO97SW872SO8EN/20171128-187A8821.jpg Hawaii “The best things in life are when you commit” he explained as we celebrated that night. Whether it’s paddling into a steep wave, telling someone you love them, or following your dreams. Commitment is the first step in achieving anything worth pursuing, sometimes you have to take a chance on yourself. It’s what got him on tour, and it’s what got me to Hawaii. Dedicated to capturing high performance surfing and pushing myself to show my value and gain experience. Taking the risk of swimming out at one of the most dangerous waves, because I was invited to join one of the best surf photographers in the world. People don’t get these kind of opportunities every day, and I wasn’t going to leave with any regrets. I was committed. Though, it may have been my lack of commitment as to why I ended up uncomfortably underwater in the first place... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049369168-3BJTFXC1J3MGUX9Z8JSV/20171129-IMG_9398.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049370621-77IFWRZ61QFNI5XDGETK/20171129-IMG_9313.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049354575-8FKVYAI03GIVBPU8DEOD/20171128-IMG_8094.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049356983-5FJVFFIU6OLE64NLHOF0/20171128-IMG_8684.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049356987-5TYVJFID9Y7NCI9YIXFT/20171128-IMG_8327.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049378504-N98SG7V26QF6MH3AYBQ0/20171130-IMG_0750.jpg Hawaii The answer to that grave question was no. I was released from my underwater prison and finally given room to breathe. When I looked back and saw a second wave approaching, I knew my swim that night was done. As a right of passage, I took my well deserved beating and was quickly washed up on shore. Giving the lifeguards on duty the thumbs up as I walked out of the water, I decided to take a minute to myself, and so sat on the sand watching the sunset burn up the sky. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049359805-S2DFKFOY03T16XYL65R3/20171129-IMG_0087.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049362421-2UMCVK28VNIOSJOUSSOO/20171129-IMG_0111.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049365026-QQOYW811RZBRKGI4YPVY/20171129-IMG_0138.jpg Hawaii In that moment, I realized exactly how lucky I really was. To be healthy, loved, accomplished and most of all, truly happy. To be there, in the paradise I thought only existed in the movies and magazines. Being mentored by an icon like Zak, one of most genuine and down to earth human beings I’ve ever met. Supported by this incredible company and invited to be surrounded by like-minded individuals who I’m proud to now call friends. I laughed to myself and couldn’t stop smiling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049380976-VQXZ6GYA8OXNIQ6XFB84/20171130-IMG_1596.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049372046-FZ4V1544SBTI7MGMQWWJ/20171129-IMG_9904.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542312294498-CO49IB0NWV5QG2QKMBEB/20171128-IMG_8411.jpg Hawaii When we walked back to the house, I was awaited by my newly acquired family on the porch with cold beers probing a question of their own... “How about that set Marcus took on the head?!” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049384610-2EIJ3U5XH9FTF417AGP1/20171201-IMG_2350.jpg Hawaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542049375218-0ZWIQVX5DYZA9H24WEZN/20171130-IMG_0669.jpg Hawaii Various images from this trip were published with Wave & Woods, SBC Surf, Tracks Magazine and Surfline. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/portugal daily 0.75 2025-02-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542313212789-Z6UFN2TQ4DSYPZXD08PT/20171111-IMG_7917.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048792445-3NPZLEY0W315D85D12ZD/20171104-IMG_2735.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048850036-OROC59ELQ029KALOLZGX/20171105-IMG_3018.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048851156-EFIV6R42CDAA0KP6B39C/20171106-IMG_3532.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1541804653757-GOTMH4FMG138Q7KJ1987/20171106-IMG_3439.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048853435-BDFL0GYPA3D7AFJIL2Q5/20171106-IMG_3732.jpg Portugal We swallowed our pride, surfed what was available and always anticipated tomorrow. This unfortunate continuance became an unbreakable pattern of our own perception. But where did we go wrong? The swell had arrived, our AirB&B owner played tour guide and we even found a Swedish local intel who advised where to surf with the various tides and wind. The wind. That damn wind! The idea that howling wind from the North was the new offshore is nothing more than a wolf wrapped in sheep’s clothing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048856152-RW36XD29FUDTU0QMYBAB/20171107-IMG_4184.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048855987-9D09DDS2BPNS8EOCOOF6/20171107-IMG_4500.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048858041-SE5XM8GRXBKZFN75DK8W/20171107-IMG_4797.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048860907-L8MFFPG27P4WJ3BJO6NE/20171108-187A4592.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048864917-JXSHQUFB5C626WCA5M34/20171109-IMG_4967.jpg Portugal Moments of perfection is all you need to trick an Instagram audience. As far as everyone back home was concerned, we were absolutely scoring. Groundhog day had started to form within our crews routine: Up at 5am, to check every nearby break at first light and take advantage of our saving grace - light NE wind. Nothing says desperation like the salvation of cross-shore wind. Somewhere between our brief morning surfs and afternoon espresso, this wind would unfavourably switch and build, right on cue. Causing us to spend the rest of our precious daylight in a cramped van driving up and down the coast praying to find a nook or cranny for protection. Then finally settling for a Super Bock and a sunset, which is always a 5-Star rating. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048860284-56XR49DT1FEMPYMG0A68/20171109-187A5038.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542313105766-2JOTHHZKCFY6DYEDVUZ6/20171106-IMG_3660.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048867905-F189XEC269R2SA8KDZA9/20171110-IMG_5849.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048862954-4RVNGX1JKSQL8FL8NTY4/20171109-IMG_5180.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048867318-3141ED38VB7HGGLBE7FX/20171110-IMG_5970.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048869326-PVNM7712SHKXOIDV05MA/20171110-IMG_6090.jpg Portugal We were running on the fumes of empty wine bottles and optimism at this point, to keep team moral high. The forecast continued to promise us our day of glory, but in reality we were continuously haunted by the undesirable Northern gusts. One day? One session? One hour?! That’s all we needed to be able to leave with some sense of accomplishment. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048872837-KQHSO3JXTCV1SO7AOT66/20171110-IMG_6239.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048872429-NHYB62J7WGS9H2OTD2GY/20171110-IMG_6937.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048874956-IBWGDYEF2FNZMRK38GMJ/20171111-187A5597.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542311561802-QT12U5YWSNXXR8IE0SSA/20171106-IMG_3232.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048879628-OZ8CDOTX878QXE0EH7LY/20171111-IMG_7019.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048877342-PXU0THJ37FSGJFK203XN/20171111-IMG_7470.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048879392-SKTY6S0OM84GHVCV8EF5/20171111-IMG_7701.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048894719-J9A2R423ERPNLMSRFV14/20171114-IMG_8722.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048883820-B10BH36TQYZ022ISLCJV/20171111-IMG_7917.jpg Portugal Somewhere between Michael’s early departure and Shannon late arrival is where we all transitioned to becoming content with our current situation. The weight on our shoulders was lifting, about what this was or what it could be. It’s never comforting to view photos and watch videos of previously pumping conditions, wondering “Why not here? Why not now?” It’s unbelievable how social media has unintentionally achieved perceiving that everywhere is always better than where you are. Comparison is the thief of joy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048882194-X306UET3KTPDLCQ0VYTM/20171112-IMG_8031.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048888303-OKL3KZVX70FYHCYGL33L/20171113-IMG_8618.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048890298-NL0EGDNSU02KAIWKVG1N/20171114-187A6561.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048890536-TQD4QVUVM7R36FFSNZMO/20171114-187A6818.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048893377-GU0SHB3TOOR5ELVC0USH/20171114-IMG_8812.jpg Portugal With our stint in Europe coming to an end, we discovered all the cliche sayings were true: That good things do come to those who wait, persistence does pay off and nice guys do finish last. That last one’s ironic, I know. But on our final day of the trip, we were graciously blessed with a sweet breeze from the East. What we had been waiting for this whole time was ours to embrace. Not only that, but we discovered a completely empty beach break to enjoy all to ourselves. Not even a bodyboarder in sight. This time the only people shouting at us were each other, into overhead set waves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048895884-EX5UT9YAUW4CMHTBBFPA/20171114-IMG_9083.jpg Portugal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1542048885683-HLQQZMZ2O5YDYGHKN81M/20171112-IMG_8362.jpg Portugal Various images from this trip were published with SBC Surf, Australian Surfing Life, Surf Time Magazine and Surfline. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/published daily 0.75 2019-01-06 https://www.marcuspaladino.com/editorial daily 0.75 2026-01-31 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633221852486-M7YDHHMP099HMRVPTAC8/edit.png Editorial https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1713393668374-FUKZV5NJZJO7PFC6HIBZ/Screen+Shot+2022-07-27+at+2.29.44+PM.png Editorial 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843257901-Y46YO99NOU0JMBWZJ07G/20180220-IMG_3345.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843248661-PCEN8IGV0PAVJE5XOVHI/20180218-IMG_1198.jpg Scotland As a photographer, I have exactly the same mindset as our cinematographer, Ben; there’s no harm in paddling out to have a look. But as a surfer, the idea of paddling out with no guarantee of catching a wave is a mental struggle, not matter how dangerous it appears. It’s all or nothing for them. Ben and I know our boundaries, as Pete and Noah know theirs. But our underlying responsibility is to encourage them to push the limits, to go beyond their comfort zone and to embrace the ever constant fear of the unknown. That being said, we can’t push them into something that could very realistically get them hurt. It’s their risk, but our reward. We had already heard stories from locals about a world famous charger who got airlifted out of the same zone, on what was rumoured to be only a shoulder-high day… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843273692-HY2UJYH1TIIRC7UTHHWT/20180221-IMG_4865.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843240980-K48USC3WBEB7J3HCP0HV/20180218-187A1929.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843250264-YPP6Y7S5P0TNPB1ROK5F/20180218-IMG_1787.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843246671-VOB9JD4M1R1MXUOQ4GQ8/20180218-IMG_1748.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843350706-3BYCBU8L3QUQXGHWZ2A4/20180226-IMG_0301.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843252355-7E3XFIF21HRBIST82WHN/20180219-IMG_2050.jpg Scotland Pete’s prompting us to watch the final section of ‘Proximity’ for the tenth time, in an attempt to study Albee and Shane’s approach to the sketchy slab in question. As any dramatic masterpiece, this movie plays up the fear factor for the audience and they explain how terrifying it is for only being head high. We watch closely as clips play by of two of the best surfers in the world getting sucked up over the falls and rolled onto the reef, but continue to come up laughing. We point out that neither of them are hurt or rattled, even after diving head first into the shallow waters just adjacent to the rocky shelf - not the most effective or persuasive argument. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843253718-JRCM6CXRMNCP9YCEL2S3/20180219-IMG_2268.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843254929-FW1TQ823Y4Y6DQTV9HDA/20180219-IMG_2711.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843255808-X85E5OH3GOHPZQKPFA0B/20180219-IMG_3003.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843261299-9PRAO9EXGBDIF59MBW6R/20180220-IMG_3375.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843264699-CACBI3Q7XSZ20X53FW4W/20180221-187A2188.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843305499-JBO0WJ5MKKI0QKQFC3R6/20180225-187A3580.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554845127439-7NGM84C5UVQT68ZMESLH/20180220-IMG_4023.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843269298-DV7LZ2RZKZAQ3JECP7L7/20180221-IMG_4083.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843268208-TAI12XUVNSRP25QA35PR/20180221-IMG_4604.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843313632-6OHBBI0NIMTGBGK2VX17/20180225-IMG_8959.jpg Scotland This is my first experience in the country, but this is the group’s third time across the pond. The so-called safety slabs are seeming rather fickle this time around though, we fight against the bone chilling breeze to have a look around every nook and cranny but come up empty handed. It’s almost as if Scotland was begging us to try something different. Ben continues to playfully poke the boys in a Scottish accent about having a dig at our newly discovered slab and I silently agree with him. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843801245-ZC3F07OH1G1LPN2E9NBV/Vert+1+copy.png Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843262436-W9OJWUNH0OAB2WREYMHT/20180221-187A2070.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843266486-3GANMRDHK4CZVOUFNAQY/20180221-IMG_4296.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843272451-13B1BHO4D14HEG6OR78W/20180221-IMG_4905.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843279021-41JGCU4B6P6OY0NUQT6Q/20180221-IMG_5363.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843279301-OFLG2XT5VU00QGVL8JSR/20180222-IMG_5695.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843287452-U1BVHH8DB2NI0AWYNCM0/20180222-IMG_5962.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843289260-QJHH3G2A544OC5O3OA84/20180223-IMG_6874.jpg Scotland In hopes of scoring right off the bat, we point out the forecast flaws for the day. The wind is wrong, the swell direction is off, the tide isn’t high enough, the sets are too small, and the list goes on. Aiming for perfection is pointless since our time here is limited. You’ve got to work with what you’ve got and make the best of it. Finally Pete says the words we’ve been waiting for “I’ll paddle out and have a look, if that’s what you guys want.” We excitedly encourage this proposal while Noah decides to join and keep him company. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843289918-PDTR88YV0O6SRM0LLK8U/20180223-IMG_7144.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843282285-JOODDOFUMQ16KG93RAFN/20180222-IMG_6100.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843290001-81LXTEQE2HIXGCDKG1Q6/20180223-IMG_6886.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843299701-JHRU6RZHV1JUROQGKOKC/20180224-IMG_7937.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843309994-RIJEYXTBFU47OB1XCHWP/20180225-187A4457.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843294416-796NR1OSUDQ8JFACZ38R/20180223-IMG_7311.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843298224-4KH6B94NDVWJ4RG1JTKS/20180224-IMG_7367.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843833739-24QEEVVYXLZ6YF3MEMUV/Vert3.png Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843302208-TKFMMQ3NDHVSJT4D2CJD/20180224-IMG_7630.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843343729-H1UPZ7DNYGGX1YP0TBHO/20180226-IMG_0219.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843308265-WNY0ZE41H9X1S1VBNXYM/20180225-187A3237.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843307123-65P05MQT6PVNLXW2GTI3/20180225-187A3767.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843312659-BE8HBU9B9Q4LBZ3CT9LZ/20180225-187A3872.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843337662-MEDN7RY6PNKLXRCZ7G32/20180225-IMG_9923.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843316829-EZC8RJ1ZC4YA6R31MUVC/20180225-IMG_9002.jpg Scotland After several minutes of investigating the take off zone and suspiciously shallow reef, a set comes through and Noah takes the first look. My heart is pounding out of my chest as I watch him paddle into a gurgling one-foot chip shot and stands tall as the wave reforms on the reef and triples in size over top of him. Our hoots and hollers echo from the top of the cliff as the tension is releasing as they continue to surf alone and find comfort within the chaos. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843320030-TK3VAYNTWRI2NWNVIF9G/20180225-IMG_9179.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843332309-IVDRW33LK5490BF6JFWB/20180225-IMG_9684.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843322937-T3LMKQO5YET3RUYOPE4R/20180225-IMG_9131.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843332098-7O3NICSH430X8MGNHJVE/20180225-IMG_9734.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843325690-743IJ439X8720BR162BU/20180225-IMG_9498.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843329030-RZH3OSQWOINELP613TNB/20180225-IMG_9595.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843335231-6YOPFRWIZPXOOJ8P0PUY/20180226-187A5121.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843350705-TME99IOCAH91O3L2NTWJ/20180226-IMG_0493.jpg Scotland Meanwhile, the original instigator of this trip, Balaram Stack, is on the phone about being on the fence. We tell him our realistic opinions on the upcoming swell and he takes it into consideration. We collectively send him iPhone clips and screenshots of the day and just like that his flight is booked and his car is rented. I’ve always admired that kind of dedication, to literally drop what your doing and take a chance on flying to a foreign country in hopes of scoring a new spot with questionable conditions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843333810-SBLWTG26Z34O77VRX0ZE/20180225-IMG_9943.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843336035-3K9QC6C9TE5N5LL6UBWQ/20180226-187A5219.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843372171-5TBUJ1GF6IAEOUA2DCLP/20180227-IMG_1360.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843341380-117Y0PP2L422BD7OZHRY/20180226-187A5468.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843343385-JOPN6G1YOXO2F4CN2TTV/20180226-IMG_0260.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843325691-2R9G7IH1DQNZLZL9O3ML/20180225-IMG_9418.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843339490-WRX5RRTQF8XKC44AUICV/20180226-187A5418.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843340994-A9KI5ZCEWON3XPADF4HW/20180226-187A5626.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843346481-H97KV3S24AOT5A7EMIL5/20180226-IMG_0359.jpg Scotland The following day we begin our descent to the zone, and he arrives right on cue. Fresh off the plane and ready for anything. During the last few days of the trip, Noah may not have taken the beating he originally anticipated, but two of his best boards sure did. They belong to Scotland now. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843355094-LHVW2X8SF3KJKJUR2P68/20180226-IMG_0608.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843360458-XWOQ6162IG3PM3UUA6CW/20180226-IMG_0699.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843362489-QMSHWNTZZZXO1YOQSDAW/20180226-IMG_0798.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843357319-EVMXPMTCD7GBGBBE16KG/20180226-IMG_0693.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843369470-WAJF8D5TJFFV0016DB7A/20180226-IMG_0899.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843360544-IA5NCN0NQISGON1LNWSJ/20180226-IMG_0643.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843369476-V6VUBRQUMBGS9VC35IBM/20180227-IMG_1345.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843364362-YE2XJ3V593KV7JW2L1RV/20180227-IMG_0982.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843375381-REO5ZKI0IBRLJ0ATBEWX/20180228-IMG_1524.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843374708-8TNAPK3919N1OGNYYHZJ/20180228-IMG_1413.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843381546-JDB8OS8KAQ0RUU0GT20I/20180228-IMG_2119.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843381656-3AO8UESZH6FSYR71OH6M/20180228-IMG_1698.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843378662-HBGMZ3R5VWMEVSTUX7LB/20180228-IMG_1985.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843383274-OVGKZYDIKC8TOKEIPTHU/20180228-IMG_2303.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843388279-UOXIA2MGPXAMAIXU9BIA/20180228-IMG_2455.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843385154-WLO7TZU0XTLAAQSLE87D/20180228-IMG_2352.jpg Scotland Me though, the photographer, I walk away unscathed with some unique images to write home about. Though I hope they collectively tell a story on their own. The age old battle, risk versus reward. A safe bet so long as you’re aware of who you’re asking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843392921-7DCB2DGKUJVI8W5NBCAH/20180301-IMG_2590.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843387018-HJMJ138LOZYC91I25TXC/20180228-IMG_2544.jpg Scotland https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1554843388841-T94CSLAX3M6WJ6HJUXK8/20180228-IMG_2554.jpg Scotland Various images from this trip were published with SURFER, Monster Children, Surf Session, Below Zero and The Surfers Journal. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/covers daily 0.75 2026-01-30 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633221937320-RZG4VZL3FOO0OYJNZSU2/cover.png Covers https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1713395784405-V8LV4WJ1RU27ZA20JWLD/Wave+Length.jpg Covers 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The phone booth, Kaze No Denwa, “the wind phone”, is now a type of shrine. And the people who visit it are pilgrims. Grief is hard to carry, it’s heavy and shifting. And this phone booth invites people to work out painful feelings in a private space. It’s a way of wrestling with tragedy. And it was all created in the wake of a series of giant waves that were the distant cousins of each wave we ride. Which is to say that Japan, with solutions to human grief like this, will never need the West. Japan will forever be distinctive and separate. Even when it comes to surfing. And for any of you lucky enough to visit the land of the rising sun, allow it to teach you at least one lesson. None of us are as smart as all of us. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367687915-WDHVFHER8LVW9IC0O53X/20180914-20180914-IMG_8691.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367705323-BIZXPJMXCAUZGKOFD5GW/20180915-20180915-IMG_9279.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565386998082-6FI9K14M71ZK019FRWD2/20180915-20180915-IMG_8932.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367732709-7R38N6PWNGD92OEMMM6J/20180916-20180916-2O3A1940.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367695797-Y1T1G0WHZ5V50XTRY18Q/20180914-20180914-IMG_8766.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565372345949-KRUPIJW3U5EI62WIGGXP/20180914-20180914-IMG_7856.png Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367692017-R96YP1TDADA86KPYLSV4/20180914-20180914-IMG_8579.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367718289-6GJM2C8UZCYGJ8RRL90R/20180915-20180915-IMG_9592.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367704702-7QA8EUMA2FVWJ22WT4PS/20180915-20180915-IMG_9037.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367702515-BPQ247QPU4FI8ADDHFHP/20180915-20180915-IMG_9064.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367785143-WGOFFKCKHTABHZJOXLUT/20180917-20180917-2O3A2280.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367744207-YXOCUS96EWB6GWDZI58I/20180916-20180916-2O3A0994.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367741829-6S4OVTMA7HU4WC5HXYGD/20180916-20180916-IMG_0397.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367745006-8QYEE50ZT9Z6BWOUS2RG/20180916-20180916-IMG_0405.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367775533-GENNMQVD8ZFLEW5HZZ0W/20180917-20180917-2O3A2182.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565372652276-8YAZHXOA9Y6BWXIOGY86/aaa.png Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367983059-XTUP9XF9YF0PRILGYHIJ/20180927-20180927-IMG_5778.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367766968-QO8M7U7VM7V2IZCHRK4O/20180916-20180916-IMG_0453.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367759666-MU2HOJTCM29CJDL71ZYC/20180916-20180916-IMG_1089.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367780227-HFUDNCGIPMA9JVEXB7PH/20180917-20180917-2O3A2220.jpg Japan In a nation of rabid fans of all things western, when a native son rises to prominence in America, the appreciation becomes worship. Kanoa Igarashi’s presence in Japan is cause for national celebration. It is impossible for him to walk down the street without bodyguards, people are naming babies after him, local schools are let out in any area he surfs and pop stars include him in their lyrics. His Bushido is evident in Japan. In the west, we do not even know what that means. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565387033213-E2Q95BEZG2BUE8EEUMJA/20180917-20180917-2O3A3252.jpg Japan “What each of us believes in is up to us”, Goes Japanese credo, “but life is impossible without believing in something.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367775896-CJ6K2EJQALFRBHB7QV80/20180917-20180917-2O3A2078.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367804044-0D4DIBN32SNNC8L8K4XA/20180917-20180917-IMG_1216.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367789266-ACSH884A7PHAYURPNH89/20180918-20180918-IMG_1807.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367799386-2MVENG2NRQ1IYNCHVURJ/20180919-20180919-2O3A4770.jpg Japan 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367996051-K1LWII1L9N3E92IKJKFZ/20180927-20180927-IMG_5997.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367875090-IV60NV24OL7DOAWPIKKO/20180925-20180925-2O3A6242.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367999686-LAALW0G4AFYIC6KFBSHH/20180927-20180927-IMG_6101.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565373115654-V8SENT9V77J8FXOEU9FO/ccccc.png Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565368021925-RCUDLMFRO05XSTVEYZX0/20180927-20180927-IMG_6364.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367894395-F4UQFI59DZJLDAYQPXME/20180925-20180925-IMG_4285.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565367969034-LH6W38WL932UWS8EKETN/20180927-20180927-IMG_5703.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1565368002320-GEIEDJ0EDSUFYJAZ6AF7/20180927-20180927-IMG_6196.jpg Japan Various images from this trip were published with Surfline, Surf Time Magazine and Tracks Magazine. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/mexico daily 0.75 2025-02-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725119496-VSD0R2N67I7XF6XN7HPA/20181202-20181202-187A2531.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725010771-64G0YAAAJ54E70X01SBB/20181124-20181124-IMG_4265.jpg Mexico It was our first day in Mexico. Hanna Scott, Nate Laverty, Marcus Paladino and I had all fallen victim to the winter blues, and pulled the trigger on a last minute strike to find solace from the dreariness that had set in at home. I had been to this infamous stretch of black sand a few times in the past, and sampled the bone-crunching tubes that it has become synonymous with, but for the rest of the gang it was their maiden voyage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725094775-VLSUMEYHGDXIXYR7X548/20181126-20181126-IMG_5792.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725233683-J4SN5XBEQF72KXEG91QZ/20181202-20181202-IMG_7834.jpg Mexico We stepped off the plane just as the final gasp of the southern hemisphere swell season was making its way up the coast, and the opening three days served as a stern initiation to our new locale. We’d wake up in the dark and sip coffee as the roosters crowed, then paddle out when the first rays of the morning sun would peak over the palm trees, glistening on the wave’s detonating lips. The chill in the air that often grips Mexican mornings was absent, and the temperature even at 7:00 AM was mild and comfortable. Hanna and I surfed from dawn until around noon, at which point the wind began tearing apart the lineup and quickly signifying the end. My body struggled to cope with the lack of rubber. Rashes formed instantly and the sun’s relentlessness proved to be more than what my winterized skin was prepared for. It felt as though the majority of the sessions were spent paddling against the vicious currents and looking at the inside of perfect cylinders without much luck of actually being inside of them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725063514-BLUC4P637AY8XDLBF4MH/20181126-20181126-IMG_5095.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725067631-VSDA911PNC2NTH9CJYHS/20181126-20181126-IMG_5128.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724961949-U47H7GKJCYKQH3LJ3KZB/20181123-20181123-IMG_2765.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725108196-2TIUKNIYG9A8NYWJKGW1/20181126-20181126-IMG_6098.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725156578-VVI4MM5SCJD7DQIITI20/20181130-20181130-IMG_7009.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725143798-E8YDD53YAHL26Z92CQQG/20181128-20181128-IMG_6856.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724968439-ZXBF4WHNUSSIH43DHS71/20181124-20181124-IMG_3837.jpg Mexico “She asked please don’t feed the puppies in the house, because then they will keep coming back and she doesn't want them here.” Gabriela, the woman who managed the accommodations relayed to us in broken english her boss’s wishes. There had been a litter of strays found in the abandoned lot next door, and though their mother was still with them, we were told that two had already been hit by a car and the chances of survival for the couple that remained were bleak. Nate had taken to feeding and playing with them, and making sure that they did not succumb to the same fate of their siblings. “Chubbs" and “Runty”, he had aptly dubbed them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724976596-6TGNV8O3SIH3VMSDNK5T/20181124-20181124-IMG_3779.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724994975-QITHP7E1K4OB7Q1EVHBC/20181124-20181124-IMG_4031.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724991212-CYK258692TEP3MG8M6IO/20181124-20181124-IMG_4123.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724957115-Z1EEGA7CDNL6QZSHM3HW/20181123-20181123-IMG_3082.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572726781651-CJIEGKJPL3ZWNUYQ78BD/Blog1+copy.png Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725035845-VYXYIF2AZC6HC5Q6YOSC/20181125-20181125-IMG_4975.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725022712-39Q8GJUTHKY0FKJVF4E6/20181125-20181125-IMG_4856.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724997116-7WX2N4CP1QSL7LIBFJTO/20181124-20181124-IMG_4169.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724976512-SFOM1FLQYETYGVGUNL3G/20181124-20181124-IMG_3887.jpg Mexico “Maybe tomorrow” we’d reassure ourselves, grasping at any shred of hope the swell forecast offered, trying to stay positive and keep morale from entering the cellar. “Sunday looks good man, big barrels amigo!” The fella that exchanged our water jugs down the street was a surfer, and he too seemed optimistic that things would improve. He told us of his escapades in the giant summer surf, and pointed to ridiculously pinned out 9’6’’s and 10’0’’s that dotted his wall and sat in various heaps in the back yard. I got mild anxiety just thinking about carrying one of those down the beach and imagining trying to pilot it through the menacing shore break on such days. This place is humbling enough at 6 feet, let alone 12-15. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725143982-2RC418FSPFQ66BLZR3ZQ/20181127-20181127-IMG_6819.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725008426-NGNWPKHFNUVMB0A6AJNO/20181124-20181124-IMG_4531.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724945485-8EK6DY4P7YU0JFUWCSUD/20181123-20181123-IMG_2505.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725040070-XPWY07HQKUTBN6WKHG6F/20181126-20181126-187A2212.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725060306-JTCKB5DXR6CPBEUYAB2O/20181126-20181126-187A2350.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725017149-KXRM4KRVQZMYGWES67NT/20181125-20181125-IMG_4610.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725000630-YLZIXFGP1BCVIGYUZ5WQ/20181124-20181124-IMG_4284.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725035233-G9D5HX4KOUDWQDIPO3AU/20181126-20181126-187A2102.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725028475-GCDGXFD548I0W9KP07DV/20181125-20181125-IMG_4892.jpg Mexico As the the trip progressed, it began to feel like groundhog day. Our days were etched with the same regime, surfing all morning until the onshore winds mounted, then lounging around by the pool in the front yard of the house, noses buried in books, peeking at Instagram feeds, or watching the clips from the morning’s take. Then after sundown, we’d head into a town about 15 minutes away from our beachfront abode, hitting the same little family run taco stand each time, and gluttonously stuffing our faces because they were so damn delicious. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725076273-5WSDRZVB5ES4NWDL0DKU/20181126-20181126-IMG_5335.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725085011-ZAPI0X4ZVWDRW89ZFAY4/20181126-20181126-IMG_5413.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725149698-F4HTQVPJIMIJIBF5MHO8/20181130-20181130-IMG_6919.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724953082-Y2RWC6XVIIZMQ4MRL33E/20181123-20181123-IMG_2859.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725240875-58A7QXYZIN0KPEXXTMJS/20181202-20181202-IMG_7844.jpg Mexico “Dude, you know you're not supposed to do that. They are going to be so pissed if they see the puppies here.” I may have been a tad heartless in my scolding of Nate’s soft spot for the canines, but I wanted to respect our host’s wishes. “Just go next door with the food.” I added. “I’m just going to keep feeding them here and then take them home with us. Problem solved.” Nate countered In a calm, matter of fact tone as if already rehearsed. I balked, and didn’t for a second accept it with any sincerity. But, true to his word, he was immediately on the phone with friends back home who had gone through the puppy adoption process, and was getting the lowdown on the necessary documentation and vaccinations to do so. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724981103-MS4XHA760K0KHN6AOR7K/20181124-20181124-IMG_3898.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725004842-0M2B3SI48XW748J5BFZE/20181124-20181124-IMG_4415.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725044558-FSWTD7W92S85OK9SRZD1/20181126-20181126-187A2121.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725067978-QFFPDE7147NHA0WIP25K/20181126-20181126-187A2401.jpg Mexico It wasn't until the tenth morning of our mission, only two days before boarding flights back to the storms and power outages that had been plaguing Vancouver Island during our absence, that we finally got a taste of what we had truly come looking for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725060300-VGF21WIAN5EO1PPZVWAX/20181126-20181126-187A2360.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725105048-645ZTFJINKAOOC495PHN/20181126-20181126-IMG_5937.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725118484-1BFPY81SP4G47RJJV3ON/20181127-20181127-IMG_6380.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725188849-7IG3TJRWTD3JF4EF6MCP/20181201-20181201-IMG_7768.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725222966-863W3H5FHNZ84TH4ROFW/20181202-20181202-187A2652.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725221343-RYWE4IG9XHKHWKLZBG5P/20181202-20181202-187A2675.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725104796-J34T0KQ4II41WGSDSWV6/20181126-20181126-IMG_5547.jpg Mexico The much talked about swell had filled in overnight, and at daybreak we were greeted with gorgeous yet thunderously powerful peaks. The swell angle had changed a bit too, and this had all but eliminated the crazy rips that had vexed us throughout the previous swell. The water colour flipped from is usual sand-churning brown into a beautiful and translucent emerald green, and only half a dozen other surfers floated amidst the giant playing field of endless a-frame peaks. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724965917-WPNU7GLWH54HWFYQ72RB/20181123-20181123-IMG_3559.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725233851-7LWTLDG1CWNW8OO8FMS3/20181202-20181202-187A2678.jpg Mexico It was astonishing to see how dramatically different the same stretch of sand could be in such a short time. At first I was frantic, paddling around like a chicken with its head cut off, chasing after every little bump that moved and finding more frustration than elation. “You’ve just got to sit and be patient out here, eventually one will come to you.” My friend Nils Schweizer had flown down from his native Florida for the swell, and delivered this wisdom to me between getting spat out of tubes as if he were Master Yoda and I young Skywalker. I relaxed, and attempted to put his preaching into practice. Nils had spent the majority or the last decade at this beach, shacked up with a local girl and either waiting patiently for big swells or doing quick runs back home to work, and pad the wallet for his impending return. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725026778-XWZLNPUCL1FLH8SFIJ9X/20181125-20181125-IMG_4815.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725205242-Q6YYROTKNZSQ4CXDF314/20181202-20181202-187A2631.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724973457-980MA73WMZF24T45WCZM/20181124-20181124-IMG_3854.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725198277-K0BQ1DX65H2P25TC8D9Q/20181202-20181202-187A2531.jpg Mexico Shop Now https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725099099-SASCAKA1KNPW0JRSVW5K/20181126-20181126-IMG_5797.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725102798-JLOUL6GXY6W8HKSG79XD/20181126-20181126-IMG_5925.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724946104-9909QWMD32RKSXZWIA23/20181123-20181123-IMG_2660.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725118219-SD9W9N4SVJGG7LBW2FYR/20181127-20181127-IMG_6303.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725072231-2SVYRJI1JOYR32L0TH8U/20181126-20181126-IMG_5163.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572726776748-8JW4W99Y2FX8V5R60NW4/Blog+2+copy+copy.png Mexico Nate was at the wheel, swerving frantically through the cobblestone streets of Tecoman. We were in the final hour of trying to find a veterinarian to implore the vaccines and “puppy-passports” needed for them to return home with us the following morning. By some small miracle, we stumbled across a bright pink building with a privately owned veterinary practice and small pet shop inside. The man running the clinic didn't speak much english, but with the help of Google-Translate we were able to both convey our message and also convince him to back-date the vaccination papers a couple of weeks, which was imperative for their Canadian escape. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725134772-DSPG2X6LCPYZ7F8XFY9J/20181127-20181127-IMG_6698.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725209427-3WBR2MWZU9CSVKWD075N/20181202-20181202-187A2607.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725176472-Y5Z4GXI9M0S1629O5VMW/20181130-20181130-IMG_7371.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725161450-C65BWTZV45PU97W67RAW/20181130-20181130-IMG_7059.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725132522-NTNIUISN9216EIHV98GX/20181127-20181127-IMG_6554.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725129816-T2HL55WYJ3I7LNA54L5A/20181127-20181127-IMG_6586.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725168918-FEESNQXJG768ZSGQ59DN/20181130-20181130-IMG_7124.jpg Mexico We were nearly late for our plane the next day. Nate’s stomach was disagreeing with his breakfast, and while Marcus and I waddled to the terminal toting board bags, camera gear, and a crate housing our new pups, Nate threw up a vile and chunky-looking pink liquid from the driver’s side door of the rental car. As I returned to help with the remaining bags and coax him into the airport before we missed our departing flights, a saleswoman came to inspect our vehicle for dents and other damages. We watched with a sly anticipation as she strode right through a puddle of Nate’s vomit, her pointed heals piercing the moat of regurgitated Pepto-bismol that surrounded the side of the vehicle. We scuttled off quickly, our tails between our legs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725173683-8O309NAYSLBZP1YEP9C1/20181130-20181130-IMG_7464.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725139560-P7JPL40835EF0CMSE4N5/20181127-20181127-IMG_6738.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725160451-YLS5PEPHBGKFAY3NYM2I/20181130-20181130-IMG_7083.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725201040-1CQG3FHJK59YMV29ZPXX/20181202-20181202-187A2541.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572724985993-P435OXIOIY0FQXI3L3J0/20181124-20181124-IMG_4100.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725193569-6IJZ6N0EGJO75E8NB2RA/20181202-20181202-187A2467.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725214479-9S860XX48CVZ5WT3IXT1/20181202-20181202-187A2662.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725248090-5OO17RYCGW89UEBPA4GC/20181202-20181202-IMG_7961.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725189024-ZDVESDIYJEFELF8MDJLT/20181201-20181201-IMG_7717.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725110681-FFLUI9JZUPRB8LOXXXXL/20181126-20181126-IMG_6153.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725228895-5RTXXWU9AVHPPKH5ENW9/20181202-20181202-187A2694.jpg Mexico Back in Vancouver, Nate gleefully depicted to the customs officials of how the two tiny dogs came into our possession. He and Marcus explained (with a few perhaps slightly embellished truths) the series of events which brought them here, and just like that, Chubbs and Runty became landed immigrants. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725245526-59P1LWPVSU7OHL3WZ3F1/20181202-20181202-IMG_8035.jpg Mexico https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725238725-S5USABZQDDNWU4O9Q3C5/20181202-20181202-IMG_7881.jpg Mexico As we all bounded through the domestic terminal en route to our final connection home, I felt an overwhelming happiness. The waves alone on those closing days would have seen us back in high spirits, but to return with two furry friends in tow was an experience unparalleled even by the pumping surf. I scorned myself for the initial reservation towards having them at the house, but was thankful that Nate was so adamant in their adoption, even after they had pissed all over my belongings on the car ride back home. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1572725155336-HR1OQ5PRFE4YSJRYQR9X/20181130-20181130-IMG_6874.jpg Mexico Various images/footage from this trip were utilized for Surfing Life Magazine, Transition, Vans, and B3NTH. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/haida-gwaii daily 0.75 2025-02-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575651423433-599Y8Y0LSRSE2SNZUHT2/20190117-MP-4552.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644542217-27ELOIWMANV3FN893IRS/20190117-MP-4067.jpg Haida Gwaii Gwaliga Hart stands alone on a windswept sand dune above the high tide line, surveying the surf conditions before paddling out. Two stretches of beach parallel each other for several kilometres, and extend in a long sandy finger pointing northwards, separated by yellowed weather-beaten grass atop the dune, sprawling into the distance, then eventually falling away into the Pacific Ocean. Next stop, Alaska. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644561251-RQVEVIV03WQIA9F7XRYE/20190117-MP-4114.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644508800-8HM8D9GWRRWH1GIN98AA/20190116-MP-6305.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644471569-QXTQV9E301I1IFS5UHVN/20190116-MP-5979.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575610945061-00R99MCJO8I4GS61C24Q/image-asset.octet-stream Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644893973-PE9DZ7NC2GQAY22V80Y3/HG1.png Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644493720-RTTT9QHNX9UP7S2J5V06/20190116-MP-6377.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644479368-KZJULKVI3MW0Y0PS422S/20190116-MP-6110.jpg Haida Gwaii Though splitting his youth between Haida Gwaii and Vancouver, Gwaliga has been surfing this beach since he was a boy, and has become somewhat of a godfather of the Haida Gwaii surf community. He dons a wetsuit with customized artwork that he added himself. “I designed it to represent the skin of a Wasco, a supernatural being and one of my clan crests” he says. “We have many stories where different beings or Supernaturals have been skinned, whereupon the person puts the skin on and is able to take on the being’s powers and do extraordinary feats. It is a way to both show my identity and pay my respects to the Supernaturals.” Gwaliga grabs his board and starts towards the water’s edge, eager to ride a few of the beautiful offshore peaks before him, in solitude. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644498926-UP2N5NJ1V8B2TF5ZKVW6/20190116-MP-6439.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644507245-VZSL6XZPIG4AD7E1Q3RP/20190116-MP-6477.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644561150-30QX0VQS6C9QJ2EBMSME/20190117-MP-4187.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644489401-8TZO8OAX5FWHA64JR2XH/20190116-MP-6223.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644522748-QNKYV8J64RVY2X4NQ7YF/20190116-MP-6538.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644535658-UOCXEOSK4BBARVBNTU12/20190116-MP-6600.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644517561-7E9TGM36NBXQ8XLN7SJQ/20190116-MP-6509.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644551138-F856WDQ3WNRRT5V8X6KC/20190117-MP-4079.jpg Haida Gwaii Haida Gwaii (or Xaayda Gwaay, in Haida language) is comprised of over 150 islands, yet most of them small, and the majority of territory is made up by Graham Island (Kiis Gwaay), to the north and Morseby Island (Gwaii Haanas) to the south. The west and windward side of the islands acts as the gateway to the mighty Pacific, and its jagged coastline is chiselled from decades of inclement weather and ferocious storm swells bearing down upon it. Access to that portion of coast is nearly impossible over land, and travel is done almost exclusively by sea. This poses many a challenge in the realm of hunting for surf along Haida Gwaii’s west coast, and has left the region mostly untouched and unexplored by visiting surfers, because of the difficulty and dangers of operating a boat in such conditions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644565744-QOLPO5YLIS1RWKZZ88JU/20190117-MP-4254.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644799396-YLZ4I6FSXLOQDD5ED3QG/20190120-MP-8546.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644571968-HV1ZKODG2Z5GU6OW8MWD/20190117-MP-4391.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644576336-16S1A8FM7PKW71O79KA6/20190117-MP-4420.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644583924-08JUQOUD95CPEFZ059ZR/20190117-MP-4484.jpg Haida Gwaii The islands of Haida Gwaii sometimes seem as though you've stepped into a time machine, portraying a likeness of existence from centuries ago. There is a certain mystique to the land. To wander through the old growth rainforests that blanket its surface is to feel connection to the power, wonder, and tradition woven through Haida Gwaii’s rich history. The natural beauty it holds is truly second to none, and spending time entranced in the forests and roaming deserted beaches, hearing nothing but the rhythmic beats of a pacific ocean drum, or the deep, throaty caws from ravens overhead instills a sense of peace and calm. This is something that the Haida people have worked long and hard to keep preserved and intact. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644830512-A4HM4CWL02LZ5LLGW0CT/20190121-MP-8797.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644618847-JQXH25IQZXBZ4AF5BVU8/20190118-MP-4723.jpg Haida Gwaii “It's important to understand the significance of why things are the way they are here,” speaks Hart, “It's easy to see the unspoiled remoteness and beauty of Haida Gwaii as "untouched wilderness," but in reality our land and marine environments are cultured landscapes, where we have occupied them for thousands of years. It's no accident that we have vast unspoiled areas around Haida Gwaii that haven't been ruined by industrial practices and the onslaught and exploitation of outside capitalistic ventures.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644614340-44RYA542IXWKQLYVEGWM/20190117-MP-4627.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644946923-3WCHREDL8K3PVALB8FYX/HG4.png Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644673055-KNVR3BMZELOR0VC31ICN/20190118-MP-5274.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644914671-8G8FXYWQX6Y83DW1I31P/HG2.png Haida Gwaii The Haida have long been renowned for their artwork, carving and woodworking, and posses a great legacy of being a seafaring people. They made large, ocean going canoes, carved out of a single giant cedar tree, which they used to transport ample numbers (as many as 50 or 60 in one canoe) up and down the Pacific coast. These traditions have held true through many generations, and today, Haida residents like Gwaliga continue to practice and perfect such craft. “There's so much more to our art than just creating aesthetically pleasing pieces to look at,” states Hart, “they are representations of our supernaturals, and intricate narratives that display personal identities and greater histories of our people.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644676613-YXXG64T6P6IPZGIUCPD6/20190118-MP-5254.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644597582-PWDG9OQICKHAPW2D8V32/20190117-MP-4571.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644642672-1GEGOY1WCLVXD1Z41NWD/20190118-MP-4801.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644647461-NTJIFZTHAMYGVMI6FL0V/20190118-MP-4787.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644696208-TBS3VYEZMMMAI49ZKTF6/20190119-MP-5359.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644591064-7737ANWV93BY02X837NS/20190117-MP-4500.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644608431-RY3BY6QHVH83PD5GXP8X/20190117-MP-4552.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644633566-Q6G27EA4O55DJ16UDR7F/20190118-MP-4747+copy.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644656103-BR8T38NWGXBUEYZD2NOH/20190118-MP-5047.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644603642-3B9FMRJKGD2OCIZ0GPFO/20190117-MP-4586.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644652836-AU8JW40HZLUUEIIYR53N/20190118-MP-4946.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644974316-5GNK5TLTD4Y1EZW6RXWW/HG5.png Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644696863-GC0PGSR6VJVVIPGQLR2D/20190119-MP-5395.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644690319-YMHIS5TZYMR34VMTAVJK/20190119-MP-5393.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644964194-10ACV4TDCPDJHYADTRSW/HG6.png Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644790268-IMWV4O4EAFYEUOJZFONK/20190120-MP-8672.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644704381-IP2W4KVQQCHNP7DO31TT/20190119-MP-5559+copy.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644738893-X15KUB9SGM4Y9BJTRZSC/20190119-MP-5569.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644716236-ZU21LWUDYFTH8WIAKSPE/20190119-MP-5582.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644732604-UUA5H61FS33MKIQJ7TR0/20190119-MP-5834.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644915222-L6U43ENYAGKCSXQ45XDT/HG3.png Haida Gwaii The Haida language, “Xaad Kil’’, also has a vast amount of terminology with reference to their people being on the water, depicting different wind and weather patterns, and waves conditions that are directly in relation to surfing. “Surfing, or riding waves, on Haida Gwaii means a lot to me,” says Gwaliga. “It's been a way that I've been able to further connect with our long legacy, culture, and traditions of being on the water here. We have a great legacy of creating watercraft, from the canoe days and into recent times. Hull design elements from our canoes were added into commercial fishing boats, and nowadays, into surfboards, and personal paddling and planing hulls as well”. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644755201-EQ0MHIWS7P9OL9TODMVQ/20190120-MP-7015.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644747189-7C4I651FT9Q0XJRMPWER/20190120-MP-5941.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644798563-A9F8TC9N8F8I9ARK2YSI/20190121-MP-8751.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644825796-4OG2ZE131IGHNVVH41BN/20190121-MP-8801.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644774162-GMU74WR46NZY54JOFKBC/20190120-MP-7021.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575650249032-SSDLYOS6Y55PHK2TL6F8/HG9.png Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644747274-548CASVFE2EEFGF8UHJ8/20190120-MP-5983.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644767385-VNFT704X7RRXXTWXFO78/20190120-MP-7066.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644783298-ZGPXNVTX8A9UIN4IYQ6M/20190120-MP-7120.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644778207-CU8OA583DFW22BQIN2TF/20190120-MP-7604.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644784352-Y2IK43FBN47PDF2RJ45E/20190120-MP-7911.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644786347-XHI8YQ1EQVKRYJ4D9U0N/20190120-MP-8025.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644813908-6K1YXDPW49WPSSTGI4L3/20190121-MP-8787.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644842333-07TB47HY0P3YZ02WLN1A/20190121-MP-8833.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644832369-XYPY3BJNMVM29Y5EAW8U/20190121-MP-8821.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644839191-97TOU3ZCA3GEK01GPN4L/20190121-MP-8848.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644830229-W5RM6UCAZL8WWNTT7PTB/20190121-MP-8809.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644803951-SL2ZCW9RA338KKL8Z6RD/20190121-MP-8767.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644866540-BY4PGW7HKMAE87HQLJJK/20190121-MP-8885.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644858003-ESP64DX3JOX146B0991Z/20190122-MP-9133.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644851937-SRR04R25WJOFYGGZBKPU/20190122-MP-9085.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644873338-Y7CHP6WLK9W9BNE2905K/20190122-MP-9296.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644873886-T6WS1ZUZWCS0SZ3L31TA/20190122-MP-9318.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644970974-01IJQ62CBFU865XOK53P/HG7.png Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644489115-OV183YMXTP19WDHWJMT7/20190116-MP-6146.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644502967-NTHY2SZ1VM7K00EC4G2S/20190116-MP-6456.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644579950-RL9KTPJXS2509SSFWV5T/20190117-MP-4218.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644535006-DZSJUAKO6QZQE70SYVO9/20190116-MP-6651.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644550307-LBZ6XJYHE7CEKZ1ZN98A/20190116-MP-6674.jpg Haida Gwaii https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644484806-O3XEFPPIK5F8HF94S6QK/20190116-MP-6153.jpg Haida Gwaii Back on the dune in the light of the sinking sun, Gwaliga has finished surfing, and his neoprene Wasco skin likeness has been traded for warmer and dryer clothing. His face turns up in a grin against the blustery offshore wind, as he strolls through the long grass. Although the spit is empty on this occasion, more and more surfers and travellers are venturing here in search of surf and solitude amidst its marvellous beauty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644893973-TXLTE21M5IYCEHCTBWIU/20190122-MP-9326.jpg Haida Gwaii “As a surfer exploring spots around our islands, it's important to know that every place has a Haida name, and many areas are protected and aren't open for the general public” Gwaliga states, in reference to the mounting popularity. “And one should always inquire about the protocols around these areas before visiting them.” It’s easy to get caught up in the excitement of visiting a place like this, looking for waves and forgetting about such things. Hart’s words serve as a healthy reminder for any visitors, surfer or otherwise, to learn and understand the history of Xaayda Gwaay before immersing themselves in its people and their land. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575644878208-EVPRA6LH9TIOQVV7DQ11/20190122-MP-9383.jpg Haida Gwaii Various images from this trip were utilized for Northern BC Tourism, Destination BC, Haida Gwaii Tourism, Waves & Woods Magazine, White Horses, Explore Magazine, and Coast Mountain Culture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1575611219775-XFGCQM3C5N5FREIFZQGP/image-asset.png Haida Gwaii https://www.marcuspaladino.com/nova-scotia daily 0.75 2025-02-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757540747-AC8UJ1C9K4WWACMY8FIV/20190130-MP-0977.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757540747-AC8UJ1C9K4WWACMY8FIV/20190130-MP-0977.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448378036-9HVXOAYOEE8XWE4B4GVB/20190125-MP-9761.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757490707-ITDR88B1G7N68Z2T61UI/20190130-MP-0522.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757212033-RBN2N5DOJ01V4JEBEZ2U/20190126-MP-0384.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448215954-2V2JM6LNO8BU1E6K05G2/20190125-MP-0072.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448277396-EK8434WHNF2FPW6HTE87/20190125-MP-0740.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448283898-RTK2VW6N5D95ZWJENFMC/20190125-MP-0758.jpg Nova Scotia What the hell were we doing here? Nova Scotia in February is cold enough to coerce most into holing themselves up in their homes, with no desire to set foot outside whatsoever, let alone donning a neoprene suit and frolicking about with surfboards in an ocean that mirrored the consistency of a slushy. Regardless of that, both Noah “Waggy” Wegrich from Santa Cruz, CA and Hanna Scott, a Vancouver Island native, made the pilgrimage east, along with cinematographer Nate Laverty and photographer Marcus Paladino. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448255320-3IFQ51KZYT0JBLY5BO5F/20190125-MP-0630.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448233651-S5D6AU3IS04UCQSYB44B/20190125-MP-0465.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448284541-NV09HF420N2IX0N9PSOA/20190125-MP-0813.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906573861-IRQFDALJBYWZW4BRCH1W/20190131-MP-2720.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448315415-E4A8X65BP47LMVAUAHM4/20190125-MP-9433.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448362597-GVOQDUJD3T552ILAY32F/20190125-MP-9654.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448269061-MO1PD2EF9B4WMY8TGAUB/20190125-MP-0707.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448320405-ABBL57RGM7MS08VO5WD1/20190125-MP-9494.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448333058-B7KZ2HXCMTBPLWQU37JG/20190125-MP-9557.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757298794-PSQYEBWZQRAI8KO0160L/20190126-MP-9767.jpg Nova Scotia Nate and I had been working on the continuation of a film project we had hatched together last year titled “Transition”, and after of few weeks of less than spectacular surf at home in British Columbia, we realized that the right-coast could produce exactly the kind of conditions that we had hoped for to round out our Canadian section of the film: roping point-breaks beneath a blizzard of snow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448368676-1TEGFSOKHMYHXBERPDEI/20190125-MP-9721.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448216225-93X1UJT0SY937RIOQBA3/20190125-MP-0281.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448227908-DLO8C87N5WXNRZC9ID4Q/20190125-MP-0318.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448246273-QLRVVZPD2R8R238RQT03/20190125-MP-0501.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593964486227-72FVRLYVWL6A46BFQ39U/Untitled-1.png Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906626469-UKPZV5PCLGQUWX05WHJ4/20190131-MP-4024.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448293349-U0ZPGSIHJFKRDQUA3SEJ/20190125-MP-0891.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448349391-V5YZNNTGZREDAGGY6OY0/20190125-MP-9584.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448417997-Y140V2FPS5FJX632F0MG/20190126-MP-0129.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757186490-458B1G0ZOHKD44YD0ABW/20190126-MP-0142.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448402224-02IPJKQN3BQ8QWC4STNI/20190125-MP-9956.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448346739-ZFHM3547VUWBDGNVB5P6/20190125-MP-9573.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757483966-56JYF59Y000MWLDCTT7S/20190130-MP-0339.jpg Nova Scotia Travel costs to Nova Scotia from the west coast, although still domestic flights, border on larceny, and often cost more than by-passing it altogether and hopping across the pond to London or other European hubs. With that being the case, it isn't exactly commonplace to find yourself chasing swells to the bitterly cold corners of your home country as a Canadian surfer, and most tend to forego the hefty price-tag in favour of shedding rubber and surfing in much more temperate conditions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448402895-VGD0T8RIBKJTAMJLEBFG/20190125-MP-9931.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757013511-Z7QGE2T5XRZUVOC2H9SX/20190125-MP-9328.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757126905-2RNSJ1P4H0KCBPA7IRZJ/20190126-MP-0112.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448416488-XBEN3L1Q5JEPFUHLZ7N6/20190126-MP-0125.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757183401-2JV7ILKCUWMJ7P8OP5Z4/20190126-MP-0165.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757467225-0VYYPD0WJU7W61FIO9WQ/20190130-MP-0247.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757497059-MSV4QO44UCTLVVS4BW1A/20190130-MP-0575.jpg Nova Scotia Arriving in the darkness of the previous evening, we had no idea what the sea would have in store for us. We awoke to an angry ocean, alive with a fresh, raw swell. It wasn't lacking in the size department, but it certainly could have made improvement as far as cleanliness was concerned. Nevertheless, there were waves, and in this notoriously fickle-natured corner of the country, that in itself was a win. Couple in the fact that there was a wedging left ramp in front of the house with a fresh breeze blowing into it, and Californian native Noah Wegrich was already pulling his wetsuit on excitedly. I was slightly slower to the punch, still clinging to a warm mug of Anchored coffee. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757536326-9U4PY3EGT8OZPX1S8JGR/20190130-MP-0822.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757055201-AJU2RZ9HSIE9BVOSBJCC/20190125-MP-9363.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593964482824-QWZGQDP91I696J4SX0JU/Untitled-2.png Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757247655-AFPMIBHHVO1CAPQVXWUV/20190126-MP-9724.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757325630-ZCV14JDYPPTLKJI4O779/20190126-MP-9882.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448339480-T9QHFLQB3UIOYH6RBIPV/20190125-MP-9564.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757362544-Z0PFGSMABBGNTYJCTCPJ/20190127-MP-0780.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757105506-Y4VW8WESDPZO3ZR3BA3Q/20190125-MP-9795.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757445150-GDOODFMVS5V66AUXUZ90/20190129-MP-2347.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757282608-NLLTDLZ62DT0RNNATUZN/20190126-MP-9764.jpg Nova Scotia After some dragging of the feet, I finally made my way into the chilly lineup and my suspicions were confirmed: Waggy surfs really really well in waves like this. The following couple of hours were spent watching, mostly from out the back, as Noah flung his tail high and rotated into the flats, stomping a couple mind-bending rotators and (unknowingly, at the time) collecting what would turn out to be the best clips of the entire trip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757428399-0UEJ4AQEVH3T4XSD7ZTX/20190129-MP-1671.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757256480-MJNA1VHJP94G3UBOBGYM/20190126-MP-9738.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757201040-BM9529YY8L95TOHVJ8L6/20190126-MP-0260.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757504715-LSRWL04TJ58QGOXPNVMV/20190130-MP-0650.jpg Nova Scotia That first session provided not only a shock to the system, but also such a stark contrast to my previous Nova Scotian sojourn. I had spent the majority of September there, driving around the province in pursuit of hurricane perfection, all while being wrapped by nothing more than three mil’s of neoprene in balmy autumn air. This trip however, was clearly going to be the polarizing opposite of its preceding one. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757494292-9FR34FWULO96E1XX6JRM/20190130-MP-0474.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757338855-LQAK2BQQJ6QPI6RYKC8K/20190126-MP-9996.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757301237-Q37C86PDKY79J85MCCET/20190126-MP-9796.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757330818-UPI15MXAGUGW6HY9BS00/20190126-MP-9982.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592448201451-583EP9FS6G7YIWQ593FK/20190125-MP-0060.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757319657-73O238U5F69FS4YE1NQY/20190126-MP-9878.jpg Nova Scotia It is always strikes me slightly how warm and gracious the Nova Scotian surf community seems to remain, given the cold harshness they so often endure. Even the gruffest and most surly looking locals greeted us in high spirits, and as long as respect is shown, its the kind of place that you'll be given the same in return. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757202150-MKH7I5Z2TXY3N2RMDHDV/20190126-MP-0305.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757210932-5Z6T9JPLT4UQW8WYUKNH/20190126-MP-0355.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757351991-ABJWAME73YXWZB3LUWNL/20190127-MP-0763.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757343678-IRONS1EWPMLUZ1INLQR0/20190127-MP-0710.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757458276-H5GHHV6CV4KQONP0RAMF/20190130-MP-2.jpg Nova Scotia There was even one point as I was sitting out the back, mind likely lost in a daydream of some place warmer and waiting for a set to come, that fella offered me a tale in his trademark maritime twang. “Apparently Seany there from Bedford came in one day like this with his hands so cold that he couldn’t turn his car key to open the door,” a fellow surfer started. “After tryin’ for ages, he decided to start walkin’ to his buddy’s place, over an hour away. By the time he got there, he had frostbite on his fingers and a mild case o’ hypothermia.” Suddenly this session didn't feel so grim at all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757259252-H1WL1AJIMMJFPGVK9JWT/20190126-MP-9735.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757270519-CVGZV7IBPXTSOQ4FFN1V/20190126-MP-9750.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757315378-KNN2AHJ3Q5CFW66F3KP0/20190126-MP-9858.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757284257-2MZIXCTQ0W5C1HOZ80OP/20190126-MP-9760.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757310798-BOTXE3AMXOSWQ46356ZB/20190126-MP-9804.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757217897-OZWH0T6XEAUQSIT55LF2/20190126-MP-0501.jpg Nova Scotia Although Waggy hails from our southern neighbour, I'm still afforded the luxury of surfing alongside him more often than most from the USA, but it never detracts from the fact that he constantly blows my mind in the water. Noah seems to step up his level almost weekly, and with the ink barely dry from his freshly signed deal with Oneill, he was surfing like a man with something to prove. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757483974-KPEBC3Y1Z32UBKNJKF1F/20190130-MP-0437.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757463252-XCAOEMZOKERYGDV8T98Y/20190130-MP-0208.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757370180-TQA6A0HQI6SAT53S2MRM/20190127-MP-0899.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757373164-IT0K2WX2WYIMZ42XB3H0/20190127-MP-0914.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757387139-GO57R1WK7ZCEXPYVPKQ3/20190127-MP-0937.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757397755-DNVFIMF8NO2GCCF9DWHT/20190129-MP-1248.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757398471-COFQT0LF80JMQHZ17MGP/20190129-MP-0148.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757405691-BMW3E27XDP1B5RJT3XQ6/20190129-MP-1264.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757440970-C5TW3MS1QHWRZ4EL1HJL/20190129-MP-2288.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593964489349-H1SVG6IMYKHIACQ9OL2L/Untitled-3.png Nova Scotia The days that followed seemed to summarize the majority of my time spent chasing swells on the east coast: staring incessantly at computer screens, analyzing forecasts and hoping that the numbers would translate into real-life scores. We surfed a lot, but always in short spurts, breaking in favour for the warmth of the house, before icy appendages and numb faces took hold. “Hopefully tomorrow is bigger”, we’d say. But it seemed to stay just about the same, and the day’s highlights usually took place as we made our way through the snow, sliding like penguins on their bellies towards the edge of an iceberg, or huddling in the car post surf with the heater blasting, and trying to recover from the time spent immersed in the elements. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757518343-YMHLQAOA7W2F0660T9UB/20190130-MP-0736.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906851843-PAXFBFRNT7L99P2KHN1Q/20190131-MP-1156.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757455042-W1MU03R53W5OM5J6QLC5/20190129-MP-2673.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757423201-ICZIQFM2HCCF33QVBTMX/20190129-MP-1522.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757420554-9L3B5IMQ6YLMGZUCB82I/20190129-MP-1411.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757435149-FW0785OJ2A588ZCMPUYA/20190129-MP-2198.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757461386-QAB5TEMZMCR9EXNPSD2S/20190130-MP-0191.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757505943-0774U6RYMZ0MC9HFXU3T/20190130-MP-0663.jpg Nova Scotia At least in this instance, we had managed to avoid the trademark lengthy road trips, scouring the maritime coast for a wind protected nook, spending hours in the car sustained by Tim Horton’s coffees and donuts. This time, we were given the benefit of having our outpost atop the most consistent right-hand point in the area, and with a half-dozen or so breaks immediately neighbouring it, we never had to drive more than 5 minutes to go for a surf all trip. Living in the lap of sub-zero luxury. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757451923-VAPP2H5OCC18WJTNO01U/20190129-MP-2382.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757448258-TH4ZWVZO1IEEE26QDHVK/20190129-MP-2369.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757514993-58DUG1L14IQDBFX32Q9C/20190130-MP-0782.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757540408-X0609DCJI7WZZOIGN87E/20190130-MP-0861.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906792898-7PGTX7EX65JQYZ5L5MKF/20190131-MP-3647.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906609529-U59Q88PUYE7ODTDAN19W/20190131-MP-3690.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906607689-F7GLISPOVJU0H7EIQ1ZN/20190131-MP-3511.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906617546-7MUGAC4UFJ860XOBLXXI/20190131-MP-3942.jpg Nova Scotia Sadly though, comfort and convenience was about all we had to show, and as the Atlantic sputtered and failed to deliver, the clutches of cabin fever began to strengthen their grip. Yet we fought! We skated the indoor bowl, we went to escape rooms, we sipped endless cups of Anchored coffee and scarfed pizza at “YeahYeahs”, local surfer Dean Petty’s delicious new business venture. We even took in a film at the cinema. But eventually, when the swell that we were anticipating on the charts continued to fizzle, we succumbed to the fact that it would not come at all, throwing in the proverbial towel with changed flights and early departures. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906618763-31RV12TMJQUW79YA6MZO/20190131-MP-3957.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906762155-FKXJ07QZAXPKM9MXUIIF/20190131-MP-4325.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757442126-LNQ7L4IJIG60UFQPARU0/20190129-MP-2310.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906626237-3FK1BHG740VRKYA25DZO/20190131-MP-3989.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1593906841872-Y7XM2G762M7JUCKNU9WN/20190131-MP-2863.jpg Nova Scotia Never is this the outcome that one hopes for, but in Nova Scotia it seems almost fitting. You're shown a glimpse of magic, flickering briefly between shifting winds and dissipating swell, before being snuffed out. Not quite enough to scratch the itch, but just enough to keep you coming back, chasing the dragon year after year. If you're lucky and timely enough to be present for the rare occasions in which the elements do align, you'll need no reminder of why you scampered across the icy, pillow-lined points, or endured the Timbit-riddled kilometres, searching for something special. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757560331-5I2V9U552WG68RYPE1DU/20190131-MP-1086.jpg Nova Scotia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1592757554336-2ZJK1C4YKV2MES4PMW8R/20190131-MP-1033.jpg Nova Scotia Various images and footage from this trip were utilized for O’Neill, Vans, Yeti Coolers, Lib Tech, Transition Vol.2, Nordic Surfers Magazine, Surf Girl Magazine, Hotdogger and Mountain Life Magazine (upcoming). https://www.marcuspaladino.com/mexico-ii daily 0.75 2025-02-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862142240-UH3CYPOGVD6MZX8Y69OB/20190716-20190716-211A9856.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862142240-UH3CYPOGVD6MZX8Y69OB/20190716-20190716-211A9856.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858254574-WF4VO0KKHANAANZRHB50/Untitled-2.png Mexico II Still dripping with saltwater, I reached shelter and turned to see another dark shape at the water’s edge. I initially thought it was my travel buddy, Kevin Schultz, but after a change in course revealed his silhouette, I realised that this man’s surfboard was far too short to be Kevin’s. In stark contrast to my helter-skelter bolt up the beach, he walked calmly, and as he drew closer, I could make out the signature, old and yellowed “skimboard” tucked underarm. It was Tom Curren. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862175506-RSRHYF2TK8VODTNUKT15/20190717-20190717-211A0217.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857410890-94CBSRB8JVA24G2PVGHS/20190715-20190715-211A7080.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857383490-MGZ5C5KQ4ND16OFU48KO/20190715-20190715-211A6614.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857698190-WXK16MILPC4AE72977R3/20190715-20190715-211A8316.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857338357-5LUAD8U592VYDIQJ9DSE/20190715-20190715-211A6319.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862209965-RHGBI92TZ2D0P3UTM4K7/20190717-20190717-211A0400.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857682845-06M7WMWYHWX9PJDT5MN8/20190715-20190715-211A8230.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857766553-QZG8SKAG26QTGLSBJ0VS/20190716-20190716-211A9884.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857308397-PTPSSZ3SJ6B7AAQMSIB4/20190715-20190715-211A5975.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857301249-IFMCRPPSIHAAVCHRJ6LN/20190715-20190715-211A5953.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857383743-GHGZLHT02BGDJT3VHRCG/20190715-20190715-211A6727.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857966157-ZFPVWJ0OE5DNHFG0T547/20190719-20190719-211A4107.jpg Mexico II Kevin, along with Peter Devries, had joined lensmen Marcus Paladino and Nate Laverty and I to wander the Oaxacan depths in search of its fabled leg-burning points and sand-churning tubes. In our journey’s infancy, we had pulled up to a fairly well-frequented spot, and found ourselves shoulder-to-shoulder with Tom Curren and Taylor Knox – a pair of natural foot luminaries looking for the same hollow treasures as us. We had exchanged pleasantries and subtle surf reports from nearby waves before parting ways. “Man, imagine how sick it would be to get barrelled with Tom and Taylor at one of these waves!” Peter exclaimed, as we made the endlessly unpleasant trudge towards the top of the point, in the midday heat. I didn’t need to utter a word to Pete to let him know I shared the sentiment. Between them, Curren and Knox have been benchmark-setters for both style and power for four decades. On a picturesque right-hand point, it was hard to think of two surfers on earth better equipped to draw mesmerizing lines. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857875748-JHSQEO2UGXWFPHZJPD2U/20190717-20190717-211A1486.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858041731-2YQHSGL7TBJVGW4T97Y3/20190721-20190721-211A5231.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857730536-C4FJER1Q7VU0E59I7PPQ/20190716-20190716-211A9194.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857316472-SS2TNF0MYP3YNULDM380/20190715-20190715-211A6041.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857393432-4GBEA9G4VW4JZQBD5EMW/20190715-20190715-211A6743.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857418648-LYFKXRFWPWQ8LWZAMKCF/20190715-20190715-211A7347.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857816471-9WWRUW36CTZTVBRFJ8QU/20190717-20190717-211A0346.jpg Mexico II At a mere five-and-a-half feet, it was a shock that such a diminutive human could cast such an intimidating shadow. Martin stood about as wide as he did tall, and introduced himself in a thick Mexi-English accent. “Guys, my friends and I are gonna go and surf the other side, we don't wanna see you over there, ok?” Martin’s tone was most definitely rhetorical and carried no invitation for objection. He’d also recently made it clear that the two waves that lay before us were ‘off-limits’ to surfers travelling without hired local guides, and if we showed up without one again there would be trouble coming our way. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857325213-IEXI4E0JLGRUYATA3HNC/20190715-20190715-211A6075.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857645634-0J853CDWWFLWFQ2Q1XBF/20190715-20190715-211A7835.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857361648-XTI648YSD0GPWL6A85YO/20190715-20190715-211A6467.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857634331-RJ0R604GKSIDWCF0S93Y/20190715-20190715-211A7748.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857394801-B0RATCHORMIOE17BSO3D/20190715-20190715-211A6843.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862264553-P6BTYR8LNARTO2Q5EC65/20190718-20190718-211A2332.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857407845-BSU90B0YD97U2UEAH9FH/20190715-20190715-211A7068.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857754040-8WFIDY4P8GGI9J6T5MZP/20190716-20190716-211A9731.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857722794-ZTORO88882WSOPWOOM0K/20190716-20190716-211A8940.jpg Mexico II After his small man’s intimidation routine, he wandered off beyond the headland and out of sight, accompanied by his two clients, a friendly American pair. “How psyched is he going to be when he comes back and sees your camera set up on the beach?” I snickered to Nate, well-aware we were all going to be in this together should things turn prickly. We took our time getting changed, savouring the fact that even though we were treading on eggshells, at least we wouldn't be sharing the lineup with anyone else. Still, it wasn’t exactly the vibe you are hoping to encounter on the first day of the excursion. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857795994-CSWM9B0GB95H1FNPN3MB/20190717-20190717-211A0160.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857674632-H49HA3VHQ3M4YXMCELBJ/20190715-20190715-211A8217.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857652847-YADKRPMHVFGDTNZ4M03F/20190715-20190715-211A8118.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858063822-POXHAYCU8Q0YGESSSQ73/20190721-20190721-211A5284.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857807041-H5BWI0K63KL5CQKJGZFK/20190717-20190717-211A0244.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857865929-XBGXHO8B9JWR0QWS6F3T/20190717-20190717-211A1253.jpg Mexico II Upon the conception of this trip, I had decided that two weeks straight of steep, bowling rights would provide the ideal chance for me to try a hundred “Kerrupt flips” (Josh Kerr’s signature double grab alley-oop that is semi-cool or completely cooked, depending on who you talk to) until I could stick one. I had landed miniature versions in the past, but none that I was at all proud of. An hour or so and a couple of Kerrupt attempts after our brush with macho Martin, I managed to put one down. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857624552-CAFERH9GG7703IG4SHC6/20190715-20190715-211A7543.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857663054-6GIVOUYOGK49F7L1DSPX/20190715-20190715-211A8136.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857791528-ICTLLX8GT338NJ3GO427/20190717-20190717-211A0140.jpg Mexico II I finished off the wave, playing it cool. However, as began paddling back out I couldn’t suppress the urge to snatch a glance towards Nate on shore, to make sure his lens had been pointing in my direction at the optimal moment. It wasn't the biggest or the best Kerrupt by any stretch, but it was definitely my best one ever, so when I saw Nate in the midst of a heated debate with the enraged, fire-hydrant of a man, my elation instantly evaporated. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857707104-I87VAOZRVRXXCNOSHWDK/20190715-20190715-211A8514.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857303462-LRUH1FGAMLDNA2FOQ019/20190715-20190715-211A5959.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857797658-LKVWIJTLXESN37LD5HA1/20190717-20190717-211A0208.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857738736-6025BTMOUUHRXTPM30YX/20190716-20190716-211A9655.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862131561-TAE46I1DJD9D81HXDTA6/20190716-20190716-211A9705.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857753830-P5GZOLNH46Z3SNGC7XBD/20190716-20190716-211A9810.jpg Mexico II Alerting Pete to the scenario unfolding on the sand, we spun and watched as he and Martin exchanged heated words for a few minutes. Eventually, the stout figure trudged back to the parking lot, and Nate’s camera remained perched on his tripod. “Hmm, guess it’s all good,” said Pete, shrugging as he turned his attention back to an approaching set. From there, the conditions improved, and what began as a more playful and high-performance session ultimately yielded some throaty, double-up tubes. Barrels have a way of blanking out bad surfing memories and I had almost forgotten all about my Kerrupt flip that Nate had missed some hours ago. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857372243-SCGZNB6U1K6G2I5NX9EI/20190715-20190715-211A6564.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858027692-0KHX7BHQETF3NN6ABLAW/20190720-20190720-187A6681.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857776940-VCBC0RWJER0E6TAS506R/20190717-20190717-211A0044.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857783095-CMBUQMX5BL26PJB73JBD/20190717-20190717-211A0115.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857784903-RFTGHORKT0VMTGTWBVGI/20190717-20190717-211A0133.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857373283-M6XNRWNG3DGAQFDZW9ZL/20190715-20190715-211A6602.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857705725-6SW8EL64ASUYWL3B4HQZ/20190716-20190716-211A8530.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857938572-8M5WU5V74I9BQVIETO5Y/20190719-20190719-211A3744.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857624889-1E02SFMSKCV27MHYD2ZL/20190715-20190715-211A7556.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857327314-28LCE5AZ0LYLQRGLOTAT/20190715-20190715-211A6111.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857836264-EM5193OLBF19YW7GAY8D/20190717-20190717-211A0499.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857845319-FUIK57KTB84R288VEQDB/20190717-20190717-211A0737.jpg Mexico II “I’m going to break your camera and throw it in the ocean! You guys have no respect!” We had all returned to the parking lot, where Nate was vividly describing the altercation that we’d seen from out the back. “He just kept yelling the same thing basically, over and over,” explained Nate. “Then he stormed off and I thought we were good, only for him to return ten minutes later armed with a big stick and coming at me. I didn’t really know what to do, but I wanted to look intimidating too, so I took off my sunglasses, and started walking away from my camera and straight towards him.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857699224-8M7PYEKV4QE51DG641T0/20190715-20190715-211A8437.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858012056-ETHDHV93P87LOVXA4FIB/20190719-20190719-211A5010.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857722795-8SJIJQ3QPUYO96E2YADC/20190716-20190716-211A9034.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857856219-FUX7DKXKHWONQE1FRV86/20190717-20190717-211A0990.jpg Mexico II Nate was becoming animated now, grinning at the wildness of it all as he spoke. “You f***** Americans!” Martin had halted his charge, but continued his verbal assault. “Hey we’re Canadian!” Nate’s retort has proven to be a foolproof conflict resolver of ours over the years of camera-documented surf travel, and this time was no different. “Oh no way, my ex is from Kelowna (A city in the interior of British Columbia, home to an abundance of questionable tattoos, blocky white sunglasses, and lift-kits of multiple varieties). Martin’s anger subsided, and suddenly Nate was his amigo. He was a bit late to the party as far as earning respect goes, but if the sudden truce spelled a problem-free week of waves for us, then we could at least feign friendship. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857766971-6VXJUL7U8Y7UFKNYM908/20190716-20190716-211A9926.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857993238-74IC9JGRRSANBZ79H8TI/20190719-20190719-211A4857.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857920036-LVHSSH1TXHR76HJ120WC/20190718-20190718-211A3193.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858303038-678M2SST2XX5NQIIRG2G/Untitled-4.png Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602890053191-28TIP1JK9TVANFZG85O9/20190718-20190718-211A3549.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862718919-NH0HFNZYN5ZJJKZM9OKC/20190718-20190718-211A3595.jpg Mexico II Back beneath the hotel balcony, we sat and watched wave after wave spin against a charred and volatile sky, broken periodically with forks of brilliant but foreboding lightning. “Anyone need a beer?” Unsurprisingly, Kevin had already made for the van and the lukewarm six-pack of Modelos he’d stashed below the seat. Now joined by Tom Curren and Taylor Knox, he passed a beer to each of us and sat back, glancing upon the lineup, looking pretty pleased with himself. However, even with the aid of the ales and all-star company, watching these waves rather than riding them was a hard pill to swallow. We’d come too far to play spectators to Mexican glory, but still weren’t game to risk being victims of the heavens’ wrath. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857735097-XR2F1XQQLLLO5M32AXLK/20190716-20190716-211A9324.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862433482-11OBSL5VJAQSUDWZQ2ZX/20190719-20190719-211A4926.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857879614-MWZBHIRRZYHLOJIW6S9T/20190717-20190717-211A1574.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857867397-FC2YB2TZURA4P415GN3X/20190717-20190717-211A1306.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602861868131-RG6C0F8J2FXOTPHN1JZI/20190715-20190715-211A6009.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602861937829-7IYVRXXVE739L4J2AGOL/20190715-20190715-211A6934.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862456054-63KX17X9TOH9GZDW1VVS/20190720-20190720-187A6359.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858030432-G2CG307T4U4XWDUWP1F4/20190720-20190720-187A6854.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857936582-UQH7O090GRLVRS4XO7J7/20190719-20190719-211A3688.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857743748-6E6F2FQGV9MRJ62KV48E/20190716-20190716-211A9687.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857816575-Z9Z2G3NHHOA9KKIK1M9C/20190717-20190717-211A0297.jpg Mexico II There is always a distinct fatigue that follows those days in which adrenaline runs close to redline, and I woke the next morning, the final one of our trip, still in that “come-down” mindset. Thankfully coffee is a miraculous cure for melancholia, and caffeine, coupled with the promise for an encore show at Lightning Point, was enough to overcome the funk. We hopped in the van, and its speakers cut through the darkened silence, spilling yet another of Nate’s favourite “unsolved mysteries” podcasts, which had become ritualistic companions in our winding, pre-dawn drives. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862192140-M0Q1VANBCWNHM56H4FMP/20190717-20190717-211A0272.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602890064287-U2A9SVNHR0HFFU8BL6LT/20190718-20190718-211A2352.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858052038-PI1BDI45VX9DTZMXTLS5/20190721-20190721-211A5255.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858260228-VC6YYLRWCFIFEWFC0O1B/Untitled-3.png Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857835357-0OQUE17G00OWV6VY2DSK/20190717-20190717-211A0717.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857906398-U2FBUPZUYQ7NFWOADL3P/20190718-20190718-211A2505.jpg Mexico II As it turned out, the fore-mentioned Kerrupt flip had indeed been captured on camera; Nate holding his nerve and filming in the midst of Martin’s verbal onslaught. We too had persevered despite a few unfortunate turns and finally been rewarded with the kind of beguiling conditions that had drawn us here in the first place. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858309500-UI9CNOBO22MSPRY2Y3AJ/Untitled-6.png Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602861913392-PYP77CNI7OEPU4YCUIIV/20190715-20190715-211A6460.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862016400-JEM8A2C3QER8C8F7DX21/20190715-20190715-211A8271.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862224258-MTDXHBBESW4XXP37WJ31/20190717-20190717-211A0830.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857963009-XVIUJ0L1KB7LXL22LW1K/20190719-20190719-211A4078.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858041242-CZ0OHDPUDYLDCS743IGB/20190721-20190721-211A5211.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602861876063-4A4IXL5Y5CE8BM8JBDG3/20190715-20190715-211A6208.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862027908-023CHYSZSYLRLS6T0FTN/20190715-20190715-211A8287.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602861913187-YLJWK45WO5F1474RXRME/20190715-20190715-211A6398.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858031177-AA4G704Z9U58MEDR27SU/20190720-20190720-211A5106.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858002977-PTDQTC25W6QTPL4NGXFX/20190719-20190719-211A4938.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858050642-78SKHAMP23I3F65ZP6LW/20190721-20190721-211A5242.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857845943-5OMNJ7XQUJ77HY8UG064/20190717-20190717-211A0748.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862050527-MV6I0HPGZKRLZTY0IYF4/20190716-20190716-211A8660.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602861955063-950IAE9M2KSW3YBACWLD/20190715-20190715-211A7000.jpg Mexico II As we pulled up to our spot on the final morning, sets marched down the sandbar, shrouded in a veil of misty dawn light. It was hard to determine exactly how good it was in that moment, but we began waxing boards and frantically adding fins. 
“Oh my god!” Kevin shrieked as we watched an immaculate wave break. Soon we were scrambling towards the take-off zone, desperately fighting off a set that tried to pin us against the rocks. I was hardly out the back before watching both Peter and Kevin airdrop over ferocious looking little ledges and disappear from view. What ensued was a blissful few hours of tubes, shared with only a handful of other friendly travellers. And right around the time that our arms became noodles and the physical end seemed imminent, I looked up to see Tom Curren stroking into a bomb. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602858068891-SFC3MS048XYIHZXNRIHA/20190721-20190721-211A5370.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862386238-TN6H2AADVAKCQS7T39NR/20190719-20190719-211A3957.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862405407-NX4IQTVOJDHDEI7MNB04/20190719-20190719-211A4190.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862050205-BHUO2VQG2G7EJJ1DBYCE/20190716-20190716-211A8879.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862386327-QPK1YNBRB5Z8P6NKTU0G/20190719-20190719-211A3872.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862619547-OMI4TP3T3PDKFQGG0WD7/20190715-20190715-211A6479.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862481863-1KH5358FGYTZ3D65HH7D/20190721-20190721-211A5361.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602857954723-S9FLTZKE1FUREND57TQH/20190719-20190719-211A4060.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862761595-303WUY5SH1JZD2D4MKJO/20190719-20190719-211A4408.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602861987749-YE61DUG2RJY26XJ44K94/20190715-20190715-211A7879.jpg Mexico II We soon retreated, almost instinctively to the shade of that same balcony, and watched two of surfing’s greats weave a magical tapestry on the perfect Mexican walls. Just as I thought to myself that there couldn't possibly be a more fitting end to our southern sojourn, I heard Kevin’s voice as he emerged from the van with yet another lukewarm sixer. “Anyone want a beer?” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602862260574-FJE5OLYGTFS8AL8EAES0/20190717-20190717-211A1645.jpg Mexico II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1602890124452-ONVHRKMYWJYFW0FKJ0X8/20190718-20190718-211A2644.jpg Mexico II Various images from this trip were utilized for Tracks Magazine, Stab, Magic Seaweed, Hydro Flask, and Zeal. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/seascape daily 0.75 2026-01-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633221535910-XGPA21Z2HN7YZLDBI49I/sea2.png Seascape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633150607579-EQKR8BYWX394LQLLWFZR/20200724-PALADINO-8352.jpg Seascape 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230358642-U60ELJ35D14FKPXM6CKM/20200930-PALADINO-0749.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230358642-U60ELJ35D14FKPXM6CKM/20200930-PALADINO-0749.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230338980-40IA8MCRSNQ5X42QD5MJ/20170906-187A6564.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230358095-1J7JVYNLXK897BG5DG7B/20200413_PALADINO_4549.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230347589-1J8MJWZF5HLGRGSPGVUV/20190903-IMG_8703.jpg Bear Aware (click here to buy this print) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230428100-U1DGKIEMGR1D4QNYIO5C/20201102-PALADINO-4024.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230342483-VSD5L4WMCMISI8GDTO0N/20170906-IMG_3248.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230363367-5MXMIFSOPUA4YJTP7D4U/20200930-PALADINO-0855.jpg Bear Aware There’s a reason Pete’s always the first one in the water on these excursions – it’s because he’s always the first one to wake up, too. He’s been coming out to camp and surf here since his teenage years and has this particular spot so dialled that the moment he touches the water, the waves start pumping. Often, after he catches his last wave in, the wind will inevitably switch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230387844-CJZ03HQ2L0LH4ZJIRR8O/20201001-PALADINO-3082.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230378997-XBRQ5H4149RFMSVME5W3/20201001-PALADINO-2664.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230344101-2G6OS32MS0KV4345D9N2/20181116-IMG_0710.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230448114-4JS9L5GMBT7DJSA0QAFW/20210117-PALADINO-1768.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230361406-2DB1NFNZP7GF0OO2ZKUZ/20200930-PALADINO-0840.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230390866-PDFWW413G8JKMN050NGZ/20201002-PALADINO-3212.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230342700-BM3MVVPWABWJODBAE2SD/20181116-187A0655.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230364029-ABIBMVKL1DBVNKPC8GDP/20201001-PALADINO-0047.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230439471-W918UDUCEF294H5QDIWH/20201102-PALADINO-4696.jpg Bear Aware (click here to buy this print) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230338860-O75GNGV7J6P07CL4I07B/20170906-187A7921.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230388054-FJ345QMKHCIBSP27V0V8/20201001-PALADINO-3105.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230344647-5NGRBL4J6JS290M7P6TB/20181118-IMG_1960.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230373484-MOJ5KR4LDLID7KJI96F7/20201001-PALADINO-2565.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230370249-EYFAF5IQS8J79TZFM4M6/20201001-PALADINO-2553.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230372216-CIH4HCOPEGLAGNJN1N3H/20201001-PALADINO-2558.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230355690-I0VDGX6Z4OIGEGXF9H4I/20200111_PALADINO_2575.jpg Bear Aware We continue chatting excitedly, until Pete suddenly says, “Bear.” He says it calmly, mid-sentence, and at first, I think I mishear him. Then I point my headlamp in the same direction as his gaze. Only a few metres away, a young, healthy-looking black bear is roaming around just outside our makeshift campsite. Before we can react, the bear looks up and notices us watching it, and a standoff ensues. The bear’s giant eyes are glowing from the reflection of our headlamps and we instinctively freeze, in awe of the beauty of this being, while also anxious as to what might happen next. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230442330-1MIPSYET3ZUURTRENIQA/20201102-PALADINO-5140.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230351905-79JJT5WJ8W9ZBSTRQBPR/20191027_PALADINO_8830.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230393198-UUK7L2A5WEBCS2RWJRTN/20201002-PALADINO-3233.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230360970-HIYOTTXWIHJVOSGPKINI/20200930-PALADINO-0780.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230393548-6DX2HEKZQ0FPYFMH921B/20201002-PALADINO-3281.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230390981-UWHZTX3CSAQBHLNPVUP4/20201002-PALADINO-3160.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230441797-V4O4TIEJ6GC8K78M0MKM/20201102-PALADINO-4779.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230409311-IZL5W24YUTT3KKBY6HQW/20201101-PALADINO-0230.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230396045-0QZKIDIV673AMHX75B9C/20201002-PALADINO-3438.jpg Bear Aware The bear makes the first move. It lifts its paw in preparation for its next step and turns its shoulders in our direction. Pete and I simultaneously start shouting at the top of our lungs and throwing our arms in the air in hope that the “Bear Aware” skills we learned as kids are still on point. Our furry visitor considers us for a moment, then turns around and slowly saunters off into the darkness. The rest of our crew wakes up abruptly, heads popping out of tents, and want to know what the hell just happened? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230385315-7JPU4LA5YEURU68BEYWM/20201001-PALADINO-3017.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230384971-IU8Q515IV7E4QLGUL7UO/20201001-PALADINO-2967.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230430865-3EBV6IDYF8D6TU93IWVK/20201102-PALADINO-4100.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230375930-II9DRMZKITGOK3H3CTA1/20201001-PALADINO-2614.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230404481-TSMK9YHI0ANZRIQF35KN/20201002-PALADINO-3635.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230434264-CHZ8ELDKSCEZZ2EH0X80/20201102-PALADINO-4364.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230414430-UCTWVL4CPRHBOHK50PP0/20201101-PALADINO-0339.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230369774-2OQ3F6598WT4ZOS0V77C/20201001-PALADINO-2527.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230420243-YSPCB0PH34H50XMYDQ0C/20201101-PALADINO-3059.jpg Bear Aware By the time we’ve finished our coffees and recapping the encounter, dawn is breaking. I start suiting up in my damp wetsuit as quickly as possible – the thought of the frigid water seems less of a concern, knowing that a bigger, less amiable momma bear could be lurking nearby. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230422428-AP8W4WUIQVKPIB1KTORE/20201101-PALADINO-3240.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230398164-SOQGVCZPBM1Z9BDXLAGN/20201002-PALADINO-3474.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230398610-IC1BC5FFHCZQD47YOXCZ/20201002-PALADINO-3481.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230400353-92K9YCPG7OQETQDBJ3KQ/20201002-PALADINO-3491.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230411763-HYG9L5CFNDOB1XEL5HEJ/20201101-PALADINO-0241.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230419517-31P50674QL0OIYRH01JA/20201101-PALADINO-2768.jpg Bear Aware Pete is eager to surf and explains that he’ll test out the tide and meet us in the water. He’s offering to be the guinea pig, but I know full well he wants a brief solo session before everyone else joins him. I take longer than Pete to get ready, putting my camera and water housing together. I start the 30-minute journey alone, walking across the wet, slippery reef, fins clacking together in my hand with each step. I briefly turn back to see the campfire smoke billow through the spruce trees, causing the backlit sunrise to create the effect of light beams piercing the forest. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230425285-MXT92XO2Z539P97N16OW/20201102-PALADINO-3709.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230428450-XI2HBMWR9S63TBDMCD32/20201102-PALADINO-4049.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230415318-I8GUFTT02TA4KCCU1AFQ/20201101-PALADINO-2540.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230417001-H4WMFC5XSXPL9DPTAS8A/20201101-PALADINO-2586.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230412557-R3N4GP9JFWAECNHNLQYA/20201101-PALADINO-0286.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230423299-DQ8DC62C0K6QFRIM4HQ5/20201102-PALADINO-3560.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230375385-EDOJAJSF7UGCXPG2TTGO/20201001-PALADINO-2576.jpg Bear Aware I look to the lineup and see Pete backdooring the peak into an overhead barrel as the morning light touches the water. The tide seems just fine to me. After he kicks out, he paddles assertively, hoping to make it back to the empty lineup to snag the final wave in the set. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633233138997-1ZQP0BGEDSHQOQ0KP3M4/20201102-PALADINO-3890.jpg Bear Aware (click here to buy this print) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230437543-CDN51L5NVLNSU93GEGJJ/20201102-PALADINO-4621.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230405594-0QTRMKYPJBVCMRJT0G8L/20201002-PALADINO-3751.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230444118-9YODN52CAL6SXCYKWU86/20201102-PALADINO-5295.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230437009-HR04WGPWVZP19LLOFP6Z/20201102-PALADINO-4539.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230382440-V69CODII5WNLE5H15DEY/20201001-PALADINO-2806.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230409979-5BUQ2JS6RGTUENKQ4V4S/20201101-PALADINO-0232.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230448041-YWESZS3PXABPC9SII3W8/20201102-PALADINO-5624.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230400903-8LI4TX2AGGT3XU6KFQYF/20201002-PALADINO-3515.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230403814-CAVLOFNQGQCNX85DNZ0J/20201002-PALADINO-3607.jpg Bear Aware https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230439919-SABPJ2VM5K089NBTIR66/20201102-PALADINO-4698.jpg Bear Aware Later that day, we’ve created a human conveyor belt to move all our gear and supplies from camp, to the shore, to the boat, as quickly and efficiently as possible. We need to get back to the harbour before dark, but there’s another reason for our haste. Across the bay, a larger bear is sitting, patiently watching us roam around their territory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1633230406922-8AC6WRUXBJSYOACTXEVI/20201002-PALADINO-3974.jpg Bear Aware Various images and text were utilized for Surfline, The Surfers Journal, White Horses Magazine, Carve, Yeti, Manera Wetsuits & Cold Comfort. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/wolf-country daily 0.75 2025-02-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728382515-8KSH18RJEDTHJQ8BA8LI/20200517-PALADINO-7765.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728382515-8KSH18RJEDTHJQ8BA8LI/20200517-PALADINO-7765.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728452687-XIVDVFJHNLASVJB4BF8K/20200519-PALADINO-9004.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728370561-MKNI34NQMQEKWFYDHITF/20200517-PALADINO-7640.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728310720-ZR3S2QC7E6CV1BPU3PYJ/20200517-PALADINO-6908.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728288918-CTP71CF10LO70VC6T2DB/20200517-PALADINO-6576.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728288813-U3UJ29MY52WTT0N6GGQ7/20200517-PALADINO-6509.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728319471-MA3RS29P6OF3KBPOOB65/20200517-PALADINO-7081.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728296039-X7NG3L2WPDTM6XDSUF2V/20200517-PALADINO-6690.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728349758-O4U30YVW6FHHGOWG2ESG/20200517-PALADINO-7352.JPG Wolf Country Our group had left at dawn two days earlier, exchanging hustle and bustle of Tofino against the tranquility of the sea. Slipped under a morning mist that waltzed in the air, clinging to the bursts of sky between the lots and the treetops that dot the port, then we rounded the corner to reach the open water, and we found ourselves headed north with a well-formed southerly swell behind us. The crew consisted of legendary Canadian surfer Pete Devries and two rising sisters, Mathea and Sanoa Olin. The sailing conditions were pleasant. I even got caught boat surfing with my loaded jet-ski mule by the boards, camping gear, and extra gas cans. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728401909-NRFQEZ1N3HWJIGLWSTSA/20200518-PALADINO-0860.JPG Wolf Country Buy this print https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728365962-VVZSUMT0LKH1L5VRR8R2/20200517-PALADINO-7612.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728312913-BE7IR3X4Z92REPCRPVUO/20200517-PALADINO-6960.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728316846-WLT657L56XOTAJJU4LDZ/20200517-PALADINO-7021.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728302656-GAF2E7OQX9RWIAO30WWI/20200517-PALADINO-6776.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728307751-KFQOVRJR2YI2KWDA6SKU/20200517-PALADINO-6852.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728449602-CGYEH817247W2PMX6JML/20200519-PALADINO-8998.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728291852-C36OGBUDWSVRFWEBAQ3U/20200517-PALADINO-6603.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728295176-4V6AJ29K1NXR34BCG0DC/20200517-PALADINO-6668.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728360479-T4BNLL8LJQZPZ7B67SSR/20200517-PALADINO-7469.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728292347-NWDZWI9Q2IW0SVH8EID2/20200517-PALADINO-6631.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728315726-A15P8VJCJAOQ0HWG2T51/20200517-PALADINO-6988.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728367638-PFEGZMU528OCSRWSKDES/20200517-PALADINO-7624.JPG Wolf Country Arriving a short distance from the spot, we saw long lines curve and transform from soft, moving shoulders to walls tapered and polished that hugged the reef and seemed to pick up speed, winding around this point towards the center of the bay. We followed the swell, scouring the unfamiliar surroundings to find both a safe anchorage for our boats and an easy access point for unloading food and camping supplies for three days. The north end of the bay, about a hundred meters from the site of our camp, housed a perfect unloading area for jet-skiing. These little advantages as well as access to a steady stream of clean water, allow for a relatively easy trip. The source of water, in particular, is an element determining. Not only does it save hundreds of kilos of drinks for a trip of several days, but it also facilitates the cleaning of kitchen utensils and dishes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728313775-H8QTQYPZIP3X3P2WE1Y6/20200517-PALADINO-6962.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728345406-P3W5G40J7IN4JYQ3Q06V/20200517-PALADINO-7290.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728324594-84CRVIJYYB0W5QIMUYC8/20200517-PALADINO-7166.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728309858-J0UCL1IIDXRP8ATIU7CZ/20200517-PALADINO-6874.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728306745-O576Z3J2N855CDMVS0KZ/20200517-PALADINO-6817.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728321787-A5928NTJZC136VICGUF7/20200517-PALADINO-7107.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728325294-1SYR7D37FB1HRS735FC0/20200517-PALADINO-7183.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728332194-NSCA7WPQ6QD7LL3DCMCV/20200517-PALADINO-7196.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728453223-UQUSPIA97MQ4EBYUVTOZ/20200519-PALADINO-9005.JPG Wolf Country Buy this print https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728332644-2QJ42FOJR0QVB86Q55YV/20200517-PALADINO-7213.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728349061-FYD644ITWR0P1BEQB5F6/20200517-PALADINO-7328.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728357753-3P14O6X8FP1W26BXBI5L/20200517-PALADINO-7410.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728430810-ILIHOQLIA42335UMF4DK/20200518-PALADINO-8322.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728375258-HUQPWI35HKX10KO0HNZT/20200517-PALADINO-7688-2.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728371424-04L53X3D15I1J4DKY0CE/20200517-PALADINO-7663.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728379879-X1J1DDK0GVNGNA074N1G/20200517-PALADINO-7730.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728378426-DTWVU5BMJSOG97WWGIX2/20200517-PALADINO-7702.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728387336-0XIGMEGDXDN5TRSMAE5G/20200517-PALADINO-7887.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728298253-P8O5EJLMUW0H7AM9ODZX/20200517-PALADINO-6723.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728460900-C2RS6N75HHEBNQ3PUW26/20200519-PALADINO-9060.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728404379-O66L3V7QY0ZHKOT6RNPA/20200518-PALADINO-0925.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728410403-2FVEHNUOS2VRIX0BHUQ4/20200518-PALADINO-7814.JPG Wolf Country It's always funny to cruise with teenage girls, in this case, the Olin sisters. Sitting by the fire, eyes fixed on the spot and a howl of joy with each wave. Watching them surf gives an insight intriguing part of the "nature versus nurture" debate. Although they look alike physically, Mathea is regular and Sanoa goofy. The first slips calmly on the water, weaving through the waves before using speed generated to swing a big turn characteristic of her surf. Sanoa, takes a more forceful approach. One feels a ferocity in her style like she's trying to smash every poor little lip. Her backhand is powerful, while Mathea looks more skillful from the front. Apart from these differences, the two sisters are fans of each other. Somewhere this rivalry is filled with family love that pulls them up daily. For his part, Peter is a bit like the quiet captain of the group. Calm, precise, and incisive in his surfing with great blows of sharp turns, tense laybacks, and other fat mutant turns. Over the years, I have had the pleasure of watching Pete evolve in all conditions, and it's clearly on this kind of own rights and strain that he excels. In the end, we spent many hours in the water, surfing and screaming back to the peak, frantically struggling against the current. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728402799-WKQ3I2UUO4RRQU1HPGBE/20200518-PALADINO-0904.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728396179-R8B01F6HWYYTU0AZQ85O/20200517-PALADINO-8103.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728419811-1NWDOOBS56EUGMQSEHR9/20200518-PALADINO-8175.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728438008-8ZKFG0YC8GMMQ86MJG68/20200518-PALADINO-8624.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728405395-85FAG3G7A7BTRIQ9EZBH/20200518-PALADINO-0960.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728399288-7BLKRP12JX8Z8J6QLMY7/20200517-PALADINO-8107.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728384631-C326GVUJ78SJ4EBF6DO3/20200517-PALADINO-7815.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728408140-OJ80O9YI8K0Y78HA1LQ9/20200518-PALADINO-7775.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728400100-TOXRA7ODEWQ603SBRMI6/20200517-PALADINO-8176.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728353940-K3FQC1URU3J3OM9FKNJF/20200517-PALADINO-7382.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728414389-47BUSA90SPCFARMKD6JY/20200518-PALADINO-7927.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728422082-D1TKWL24UECUQQ4Q5ZVJ/20200518-PALADINO-8262.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728425423-RXGK47LAGH46DJYQ5M5X/20200518-PALADINO-8314.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728418078-T2D6XC470TT24NWW6KA3/20200518-PALADINO-8023.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728436248-5455V7VFOEAJE7UUTS7F/20200518-PALADINO-8570.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728423836-99EJM97LET1V8JJG10BS/20200518-PALADINO-8291.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728421530-BTSJKVSOPI8B3AJ61169/20200518-PALADINO-8197.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728434946-CWV7WBHMKUQ8CZ2JSWZ1/20200518-PALADINO-8526.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728439082-EZI5LZXOCQZ639PEC5TQ/20200518-PALADINO-8785.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728391702-A6H8VONLAZ70QJEQ3J4I/20200517-PALADINO-8008.JPG Wolf Country "I can't believe how much fun this wave is!" exclaims Sanoa, dazzled with joy. Time of nostalgia, each unpacking the highlights and laughing hysterically at sharing our stories as the sun slowly sank below the horizon. Such trips offer a wonderful respite from the crowds and monotony of the summer slump which can sometimes set in. Turn off your cell phone, prepare your meals around a campfire and pay much more attention to the world at your feet. Then you go home, tired and weary, muscles sore from endless hours of surfing, transport of equipment, and sleeping on cobblestones. Even every garment imbued with the aroma of smoke from a campfire is something that oddly comes to worship over the years. And the daily stress that fades for a moment, that of those brief moments spent, of pretty simple rediscoveries, in wilder happiness. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728433529-9E3WP6CFIMSQVE5U6DW9/20200518-PALADINO-8395.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728440891-QKL8C30MZKTB2OJY8SO6/20200518-PALADINO-8971.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728449319-EJHUKOJ2JI2WYVVY375H/20200519-PALADINO-8487.JPG Wolf Country https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1654728461172-V8UM6I0V6GGP0EM5DVAL/20200519-PALADINO-9098.JPG Wolf Country Various images and text were utilized for Surf Sessions Magazine, Mademoiselle Magazine, Surf Girl Magazine, Surfline, White Horses Magazine, Manera Wetsuits & JS Industries. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/chile daily 0.75 2025-02-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883531114-3S2QCY4HNKFJSM5HWRT7/20220622-PALADINO-1621.jpg Chile It all started when the Manera brand asked me to take part in a rather special adventure with this true legend of cold waters, Peter Devries. At first, I didn't believe it. Raised in Brittany and loving winter because I am able to find confidential spots there, I was going to meet the ultimate taste of cold water surfing, for ten days, during a search trip in South America. I reverted to childhood at the idea of participating in this adventure. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883531114-3S2QCY4HNKFJSM5HWRT7/20220622-PALADINO-1621.jpg Chile It all started when the Manera brand asked me to take part in a rather special adventure with this true legend of cold waters, Peter Devries. At first, I didn't believe it. Raised in Brittany and loving winter because I am able to find confidential spots there, I was going to meet the ultimate taste of cold water surfing, for ten days, during a search trip in South America. I reverted to childhood at the idea of participating in this adventure. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883358263-HO6KULRHJIPBPZ2NTCRG/5.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883371035-Y699TU8B1KDQY021WPYU/20220615-PALADINO-5522.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883363050-QBRZH9Z1DSM6BOAQWOO9/20220615-PALADINO-4878.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883364039-EYJZ3EU6SOF1103XTIJY/20220615-PALADINO-5062.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883381279-BFMTTTG5MWJ9Q3F3ND23/20220616-PALADINO-8397.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883355902-VWCHW9E12GGPBBWE8S9J/3.jpg Chile The preparation was all in all quite simple: hats, coats, slippers, balaclava, gloves — except perhaps to put the 6/4 mm in the luggage! It is the first time in my life that I have a 6/4 mm with the integrated hood and the first time in my life that I leave the Finistère sun in the middle of June to reach the other hemisphere and find freshness there. It's a super strange feeling, normally it's the opposite way: when it's cold, we seek warmth! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883367031-BGSGHKI5M0QJE6IALKI1/20220615-PALADINO-5252.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883365493-00E8T8544O3LJGPL9DPC/20220615-PALADINO-5129.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883369034-9BN00XL4A76KLOHNU9DH/20220615-PALADINO-5461.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883372056-WMJ1AJVA82YM3YKGZ23V/20220615-PALADINO-5803.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883373629-NH4R0NF8EPVXVFQGRH85/20220615-PALADINO-6313.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883375927-CV6QC0LFPCS8DUWQM1A4/20220615-PALADINO-6800.jpg Chile Finally, I love this concept of the endless winter. After a night on the plane and a mystical kind of awakening above the Andes mountain range, accompanied by clouds and a stunning sunrise, I landed at the airport. I met the whole team there: Marcus the photographer, Nate the cameraman and Peter the legend. All three are from the Tofino region in western Canada, where, even in summer, you wear slippers. They are used to extreme conditions. I received all my luggage. My boards were intact. Unfortunately, this was not the case for Peter, he had not been able to recover his board bag. This one had apparently not made the connection in Toronto. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883377318-XKFHZUEAQSRUB2D4CIOQ/20220615-PALADINO-7213.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883381407-QL2ITNB9GSP82MVJXHX3/20220616-PALADINO-8445.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883378231-52D7WQMFMZ1QY7IDT5XI/20220616-PALADINO-7687.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883384263-ZV53XFG47Z722YVR8FFF/20220616-PALADINO-8514.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883384780-HKRSWO0WWD2LH46WV818/20220616-PALADINO-8520.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883387002-B2UFAFQMYU5TOU3W87XC/20220616-PALADINO-8547.jpg Chile Too bad, now we have to chart the course. The bag will surely arrive a few days later. After half a day of travel, we arrive at the surf zone. The landscapes are dazzling. We are very close to Patagonia and it shows. There is green everywhere, the bays and beaches are beautiful, it's cold but I feel good there. It looks like a mix between Canada and Mexico, it's funny but that's the idea I get at first sight: black sand with large pine and eucalyptus forests. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883387314-PBSF6NSS7U9XXYXCBX5Y/20220616-PALADINO-8947.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883389153-NRXY6NKWALZNKJR1H1L4/20220616-PALADINO-8973.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883434071-IB0RULQIVBJP0CJD7JB2/20220618-PALADINO-3522.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883390211-2ATBOFTZFSEC5EN09YTA/20220616-PALADINO-8985.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883367811-TKFMGM22TY9ZUOO0F5PS/20220615-PALADINO-5446.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883405480-VHU13A9H6JJS1R91SHNB/20220617-PALADINO-1327.jpg Chile We begin the search and identification of spots. I am freewheeling, Peter who has already come several times with Nate directs the operations. He is very meticulous about his decisions. Our improvised guide tries to grasp the weather maps and the different orientations of the spots. It reminds me of my own experience at home when I try to surf the best break between Carnac and Perros Guirrec, in winter. I get caught up in the game of search and cartographic study. Here everything takes on another dimension, you get lost in forests and dirt roads, the coast is still well preserved and access is sometimes difficult. A good session is earned. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883393202-P4FSMTUM3CEBJ6Z2JU57/20220616-PALADINO-9624.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883392109-15RSIRO8TFU9SDUH2EVE/20220616-PALADINO-9336.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883396134-O5HZRW6UDZKM50QO6JEJ/20220617-PALADINO-0002.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883399117-R222KFF3O55S5GZM3RLM/20220617-PALADINO-0809.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883396794-F5B3Z1ZZ65REC6RARW37/20220617-PALADINO-0199.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883401735-ZMGFVZ9CC6QLHV5CCUWT/20220617-PALADINO-1049.jpg Chile It is at the end of a dirt road and a small fishing port that we find our first waves. It's magical, the water is super clear and seems to be very clean. There is life and the waves are there. Not many people are on the horizon, we chat with two or three locals, seals, and sea lions. After our sessions, we usually meet at the local café near a wood fire, to warm up our bodies and our souls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883406943-BDIRGPO7ZFOT6ZGLB4HQ/20220617-PALADINO-1510.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883357010-Z0CD39X3UDN3C7LIIJTJ/4.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883403558-U4B0M4UNMN0XI2Z3DI75/20220617-PALADINO-1166.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883404936-5VJK2B7CDLEWNB1AHDAT/20220617-PALADINO-1258.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883408271-ZPNT0EKGP3EKSUTUDXOF/20220617-PALADINO-1582.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883447925-CDHNT46P7QSS73MXJ474/20220619-PALADINO-0452.jpg Chile It really feels good to discover new cultures, to meet new people, to adapt to their way of life, to try to understand the local situation and attitudes. I am blown away by the coast. I love wide-open spaces and backgrounds that have character and character. I am served in this sense. We surf a lot. Three sessions per day between 6/5/4 mm hood in the morning and 5/4/3 mm hood in the afternoon. The water is at 8° and the air varies between 0° during the first session and 10° a few hours later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883409815-8ZTSM363V8X3D2DHNY3Z/20220617-PALADINO-1648.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883353960-O9QDL3JNP4IBI9U4QVG1/2.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883414968-XXFONWCTHN0ZIF4NL5C3/20220617-PALADINO-2070.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883416156-HT8ISPIBL8NZZUA1IMCR/20220617-PALADINO-2289.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883418558-ICZF5XKI7MNI119NFZLD/20220617-PALADINO-2609.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883555933-1BENQTTL2VH146W2ORB5/20220624-PALADINO-2521.jpg Chile We test the products in all their forms, in intense sessions near the edge and in sessions with a lot of paddling on the point breaks. I expected to suffer from the cold, but in fact, when you are well-equipped, everything is fine. I am very surprised by the flexibility of a 6/4 mm integrated hood, I can really row easily and I am super comfortable in it. I think I will wear it more often at home. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883420827-I6T4ONV6ATPDZSYB0QCG/20220618-PALADINO-2898.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883421233-7L4IQETDNPGLVSREVYXT/20220618-PALADINO-2943.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883532736-TCLJGAFK6MV2LDYNH2O7/20220622-PALADINO-9281.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883423296-9UDTO98VCL2DE719E6P7/20220618-PALADINO-3088.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883423919-BEJE3507ACXRKG0CX9X3/20220618-PALADINO-3167.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883427331-3JL5ZGAKOZM0R819JYWA/20220618-PALADINO-3243.jpg Chile The search takes us to my favorite spot of the trip: the Jesus light wedge. It is a wedge between two rocks that forms a rather punchy straight line, super fun, with enough to push with power in the wall and also to take off in the shorebreak. I like. We cruise on the beach all day, we picnic and we re-surf in the afternoon. I introduce Henaff Pâté to western Canadians, they love it and become addicted to it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883425982-3BW6C63R5POGW4ZEWVJW/20220618-PALADINO-3206.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883429893-QNCZA2YPBXUSX50UOD4L/20220618-PALADINO-3354.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883432251-KW02BRMDLSD5225OK51R/20220618-PALADINO-3453.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883431018-LID2607XTN3WSARNHWPT/20220618-PALADINO-3415.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883437067-TSPMOVL92D9FBB4U9EGV/20220618-PALADINO-4003.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883439557-692MS7H0WYMHOE9ZCSNB/20220618-PALADINO-4045.jpg Chile We expect a swell for the end of the ten days. It's a rather special swell that arrives with a lot of wind. We hope that we will be able to score a particular spot. Peter Devries is still without boards. He surfs mine, made in Europe, it's pretty crazy to see the Cold Water GOAT evolve on my own gear. He rips the spot even if he is not used to this volume. Devries is really a legend, he is from the same generation as Parko and he managed to make a career as a pro surfer coming from a not-so-glamorous spot where it is always cold. He made it a strength. The character is super inspiring, especially for a Breton like me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883500702-WZUEMD9VHMD0LAYA8DAK/20220620-PALADINO-7866.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883440409-YREO8ANW8Q92217FSJVK/20220618-PALADINO-4229.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883515902-I5FC3R35DL3IL26H7EMN/20220621-PALADINO-8660.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883442994-6XQAO8THLZ57IOPOVHZP/20220618-PALADINO-4360.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883435349-5K6K4DI4FPFFZFZC1E6K/20220618-PALADINO-3896.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883443708-KRHHWB4XRMVQ61QZKYTO/20220618-PALADINO-4555.jpg Chile I try to store as much information and learn from this trip companion, he is really strong and he breaks the spot with a smile. I would like to be like him at the same age, that's for sure! In addition, we have a good laugh with the Canadians, they are very humble and very polite people, they are approachable and easy to live with, and they integrated me very quickly into their crew. I feel a little bit the same atmosphere as my Breton counterparts, by evolving a little far from the star system, we take ourselves a little less seriously and it's easy to mess around, it's nice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883529473-A90IFOG83M92LZNOURMP/20220622-PALADINO-1429.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883446302-HJN4826KCTUOLI4K45GI/20220619-PALADINO-0441.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883560965-7TXEAKHLXHDT807UQ6WT/20220624-PALADINO-3017.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883452585-HYKRX8CFC4KUL53S4I6Z/20220619-PALADINO-0522.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883455875-FWG7PQHFR6WWX8PVOKIM/20220619-PALADINO-4875.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883457851-Z9V5BBWZORWBDY0SDA2A/20220619-PALADINO-4936.jpg Chile The swell is coming, but it's a little less than expected. We get our teeth into this famous spot on this coast where the wave rolls over hundreds of meters on a sandbank. It's quite amazing to see this with your own eyes. I find it hard to believe what I see, a place well preserved because of its cold climate, but of world-class quality. At the end of a bay, over the last few days, we can see a few tubular peaks. We are getting closer and luckily there; we come across a beach break of the Landes type, with right and left tubes, full offshore. It's not big, but we are alone and we enjoy ourselves. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883458509-LEONKC12RR4OBXKGX2FJ/20220619-PALADINO-4989.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883460028-XV4BK682V47SKCDGIGXU/20220619-PALADINO-4997.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883465050-HZOCMYMY9Z5TY7AXK6RH/20220619-PALADINO-5104.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883460936-G5H8DKV5ZXYD3AZWN873/20220619-PALADINO-5016.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883467284-LRY9I1Q18VMJAUPLQRB0/20220619-PALADINO-5133.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883455107-NOLXG63ZRWDF0XZGPRC9/20220619-PALADINO-0553.jpg Chile The atmosphere at the peak is crazy: the offshore wind is super powerful and it causes a light drizzle which accompanied by the contrasts of the sky, the colonies of sea lions and sea lions make the moment totally special — the animals that surf the wave with us verify that we are friends and not predators. They are very curious, it's really funny, I tell myself that maybe I look like them with my integrated balaclava jumpsuit and my mustache sticking out. I make friends with them and they let me score some tubular jewelry. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883468252-SV9QD6TJY32YP6SY8PK0/20220619-PALADINO-5176.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883445515-HQK43FCTSSIMSR8JMKCV/20220618-PALADINO-4571.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883472829-UUOJVF6MGITKQ30ED2XL/20220619-PALADINO-5235.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883473626-PZTINWMMX8X2BBEN2FBP/20220619-PALADINO-5369.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883475275-UA18T9TR4OWDA3S1QSPI/20220619-PALADINO-5432.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883476446-YN0N5Z0KXJIRIYN7OHBV/20220619-PALADINO-5497.jpg Chile The end of the trip is approaching, it's time to say goodbye to this team and to this magnificent and no less secret place on the planet. I am delighted to have this chance: to discover these waves, these characters, and this culture. I would come back to this region, I really fell in love with Chile. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883479264-Z0TRJCG1NKWJ7UFHC0IF/20220619-PALADINO-5714.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883413772-FWK18ZESW0D4RQKHP7I8/20220617-PALADINO-1926.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883353960-2DF34JXSVC2S0P9PKU9M/1.jpg Chile Thanks to Manera for taking me on this trip, thanks to Pete and his team of bosses, thanks to the Chileans and the local surfers we met there, thanks and Kenavo Ar vechal! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883500057-JHB1JZJXQMDQQ0UT7KNI/20220620-PALADINO-7797.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883394620-6UG3AW3GG8HUGJU3Q0IX/20220616-PALADINO-9824.jpg Chile 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883570683-NU6FTVB02IG4512Z1PV0/To+Kill+a+Mockingbird.jpg Chile BUY THIS PRINT https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883506677-WI3HO2M9RC0QLEGLSPV6/20220621-PALADINO-8327.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883508815-BNBUJ7LNHKU7Q5AKP83Y/20220621-PALADINO-8445.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883513175-KE6TDJUXZP358Y0WZINC/20220621-PALADINO-8555.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883513916-FB77U8AC5RCOX6YXH30T/20220621-PALADINO-8577.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883463526-SSVTCO1ICCURRWU1NKG1/20220619-PALADINO-5094.jpg Chile https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1689883516372-3WRQZD0G8BO5IJH03U0Y/20220621-PALADINO-8748.jpg Chile 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127514260-JFZK61O1FD0ZKL7F02VD/20240506-PALADINO-0311-2.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127349814-28T006N31XYO55SETM8O/20240405-PALADINO-9461.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127448201-65WAUT7JD4O91OP3H0JH/20240503-PALADINO-8145.jpg Tahiti The camaraderie and competitive spirit in the lineup added another layer of magic to the experience. With the upcoming WSL contest also looming, it felt like the calm before the storm—a time for these athletes to test their limits and refine their craft under intense yet supportive conditions. Capturing their focus, exhilaration, and occasional relief as they threaded the needle through some of the world’s heaviest barrels was an honour. It highlighted how far women’s surfing has come and offered a glimpse into the incredible future that lies ahead. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127358111-NY0ZAFVYYZSN7NT9LXJD/20240501-PALADINO-5449.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127365968-WP69BRF65704BMDXC0BP/20240502-PALADINO-0919.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127689284-19I4G41NRT8KHLIGACLN/20240506-PALADINO-3065.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731128020200-7DD47R79HYYEBFF95FO4/20240507-PALADINO-9394.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127540912-DR0OTVWD92AMPYD8R85M/20240506-PALADINO-0509.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127536193-FCOKW7S6Z2BC3KZXZ0A3/20240506-PALADINO-0470.jpg Tahiti 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127401635-RP3J9NWP2UDPA1LISI1Z/20240503-PALADINO-0025.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127743285-RFNP6CPNFN41VDEFIATT/20240506-PALADINO-4164.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127775459-2BKL511O9DP9WVAZY7AE/20240506-PALADINO-4566.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127779550-3K5A0LD355FG5VZJU606/20240506-PALADINO-4581.jpg Tahiti A huge thank you to Domenic Mosqueira and Tahurai Henry for showing us the ropes! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127794050-PG2FZEMKSYTJ6LCEB2YH/20240506-PALADINO-4742.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127379955-2XARJ77RI7URNJ3AK4LZ/20240502-PALADINO-5769.jpg Tahiti 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https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731127990131-GFOMFS9HRBIT069BFI4B/20240507-PALADINO-7815.jpg Tahiti https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1731128025878-VPI64PT87MMRVHTOBLSR/20240507-PALADINO-9554.jpg Tahiti Various images were utilized for Stussy x Nike, Surfline, Smorgasboarder Magazine, Oneill, and Marcus Paladino Print Shop. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/nova-scotia-ii daily 0.75 2025-06-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193842996-EWAJ07K33MPSJZOAM5ZL/20240229-PALADINO-1933.jpg Nova Scotia II I jolted awake as the plane touched down with a jarring thud, the icy runway beneath us sending a shockwave through the cabin. My breath caught in my throat, like waking from a nightmare, the sudden reality of where we were hitting me all at once. For months, we had meticulously planned the final surf trip for filmmaker Nate Laverty’s latest project, Creatures of Habit. We wanted somewhere cold, remote, and far from familiarity—somewhere that would break us out of our conventional routines and push our limits, both physically and mentally. When a hurricane swell appeared on the forecast for Canada’s East Coast, we knew this was the moment we had been waiting for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193842996-EWAJ07K33MPSJZOAM5ZL/20240229-PALADINO-1933.jpg Nova Scotia II I jolted awake as the plane touched down with a jarring thud, the icy runway beneath us sending a shockwave through the cabin. My breath caught in my throat, like waking from a nightmare, the sudden reality of where we were hitting me all at once. For months, we had meticulously planned the final surf trip for filmmaker Nate Laverty’s latest project, Creatures of Habit. We wanted somewhere cold, remote, and far from familiarity—somewhere that would break us out of our conventional routines and push our limits, both physically and mentally. When a hurricane swell appeared on the forecast for Canada’s East Coast, we knew this was the moment we had been waiting for. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193848227-E2ZT3FSAKJDVVDB8YMYG/20240226-PALADINO-8586.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193883276-IHKEH3SUWLQ9HGNY734B/20240229-PALADINO-2286.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194331117-CC7R7RRXFM4RXBN48N82/Untitled-6.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193872751-G33I1N8XW4RKAJYV04ZN/20240225-PALADINO-5848.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193849320-JDYPRP3AZL2ULR14RME7/20240225-PALADINO-4350.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193888744-RNBXOYEM6PB9T89Z2HKP/20240226-PALADINO-9204.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193853449-KP4MKWTKR0LBN1LKAO20/20240225-PALADINO-6270.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193858988-TFJ38860QHR3TRQF32B0/20240224-PALADINO-3383.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193869999-N79BHCSN2BYSLSB4PH89/20240223-PALADINO-1245.jpg Nova Scotia II Nova Scotia’s unforgiving climate, with its bone-chilling winds, makes you question why you’re standing on the rocky shoreline, staring out at the relentless Atlantic. But for professional surfer Pete Devries, the East Coast is familiar territory. At the age of 40, with over two decades of free surfing experience and a lifetime spent chasing waves around the globe, Pete was eager to return in search of another cold-water destination with uncrowded waves. “It had been six or seven years since my last trip out here. It’s fickle and tricky, but the waves are just so inviting. The cold is no joke, though,” he admits. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193877051-9KWGLPD2YIWYYTO91NVN/20240229-PALADINO-1952.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193860390-T08EUD4TYMYSH0ZLYWT5/20240301-PALADINO-3820.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193896330-ONH4QQ1FRJBC69SDNLUC/20240225-PALADINO-6758.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193890949-PHLDD4TDOQA2AIGHCGBE/20240225-PALADINO-5576.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193878970-UZZZD9105SH4RKT4FLF1/20240223-PALADINO-1946.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193894662-HQLD2RR2VWOEWT1H3G3K/20240223-PALADINO-1954.jpg Nova Scotia II Joining us on this journey was Reed Platenius, who, at half of Pete’s age but towering over him in height, embarked on one of his first major free surf trips. Fresh off a busy year on the Qualifying Series, where he claimed the top spot in the World Juniors division for North America, Reed was ready to experience the raw, untamed surf of Canada’s East Coast. For him, this was a chance to break away from the competitive grind and immerse himself in the adventure of free surfing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193900046-06Z0G5TXFKTTIWZ16MQD/20240229-PALADINO-0412.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193902049-VAE9T3UXUXTDXJD1Y2F5/20240223-PALADINO-0207.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193905122-MFM6KBJY065PELRTZKKD/20240301-PALADINO-3121.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193908164-MN04F3KFOZY94REJMSHK/20240229-PALADINO-1426.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193910537-DHQPP85QDPN5WZZ248KE/20240301-PALADINO-3128.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193924888-8G6DEVZ76IVNJS9WULT0/20240225-PALADINO-5331.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193913845-IPLTXRISWS1V7Z0XUBNE/20240222-PALADINO-0503.jpg Nova Scotia II Nova Scotia, with its rugged coastline, offers a surf experience that’s both exhilarating and punishing. The environment is as unforgiving as it is beautiful, with frigid waters that demand not only skill but resilience. The Atlantic Ocean here isn’t just cold—it’s relentless, with icy swells that can catch even seasoned surfers off guard. “To get good surf here in the winter, you have to fight an invisible wall of cold and brutal wind. Sea temperatures hover just above freezing, and the wind chill takes air temps well below,” says local surfer Adam Tory. “Ask anyone getting out of the water on these days and they’ll probably tell you it was worth it, but they also might be crazy…” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193927842-L6UDF8H0T0ACPRXHKZIY/20240229-PALADINO-0287.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193919435-7DWWZIZ5SHT5FOTXJAEX/20240301-PALADINO-3752.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193916200-O4AKNWCGZBVA4VFO2A1J/20240226-PALADINO-9220.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193922004-XIQKUS3I4NLOVSEJMAV5/20240226-PALADINO-0266.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193930405-GY1BYK6V2TXIYZERQCNR/20240225-PALADINO-5596.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193933594-JE6VOYUWES5ORLQYE1A4/20240301-PALADINO-3933.jpg Nova Scotia II The challenge of finding the perfect wave is compounded by the region's volatile weather, where conditions can shift from promising to perilous in mere minutes. The coastline is dotted with rocky outcrops and secluded bays, making the search for waves a challenging endeavour, to say the least. There’s a certain solitude in surfing Nova Scotia—far from the crowded breaks of more temperate regions, you can often find yourself alone, or with just a handful of locals, battling the elements. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193936094-76P8NFIR2JFA8K939PGR/20240229-PALADINO-0286.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193939384-SPNC1EB94FTQ0DK7OYE7/20240301-PALADINO-3144.jpg Nova Scotia II Buy this print https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193941624-I4Z410Y5FYAR6WQ1KKFC/20240225-PALADINO-5760.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193947305-7U3MJZ19RACKD3A1XBTW/20240225-PALADINO-5590.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193950723-L2RD476S85587IQZY5NU/20240224-PALADINO-3069.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193953271-WYVCM5LSW8XDWXZJV85D/20240229-PALADINO-1540.jpg Nova Scotia II “Surfing in those types of conditions is far from fun. It’s less surfing and more survival. I kept having to force myself to go in, not because I wanted to, but because I’d lose my toes and fingers if I went any longer,” explains Reed. “It would take over two hours sitting next to a heater just to get your body temperature back to normal. I have so much more respect for the locals over there who endure those unexplainable conditions all winter long.” https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193956371-QWPRZBOWS49RIVEDAV6U/20240224-PALADINO-3780.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193959088-9K3ZFIHNYZWHBWYE3JQY/20240222-PALADINO-9270.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193965078-VFP0SXSJ7M5VLECEQA5T/20240229-PALADINO-1526.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193967669-6XM88UO56H3SNY1PY04Q/20240225-PALADINO-4410.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193970749-L2PFWPSD9O4P44CUZSF1/20240222-PALADINO-9804.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193961870-6RLLO48IAJC31PNVXLGE/20240225-PALADINO-5341.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193973666-MF8MQ4A9A8ORV2OYDNYS/20240223-PALADINO-2487.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193976538-H9PYTDWY7IYWERW7LBY9/20240225-PALADINO-8101.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193979610-FL162XSOT414KJ20E90W/20240229-PALADINO-2073.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193982086-H1VBHBPHJU85VE8FMZEE/20240301-PALADINO-3110.jpg Nova Scotia II For those who brave it, the reward is immense. The waves here are powerful, clean, and uncrowded, a stark contrast to what we’re used to on the West Coast. “It makes surfing back home feel almost tropical,” says Pete. But the path is fraught with challenges: from the cold that seeps into your bones to the fierce winds that can turn a promising session into a white-knuckled fight against nature. “The harsh reality of surfing Nova Scotia in the winter really hit me on this trip. The same wind that clears the skies and cleans up the waves after a storm cuts right through you,” Pete describes. “The morning dawn patrol is downright frigid with windchills into the -20s and ice freezing to your hood post-duck dive on the colder days.” Surfing in Nova Scotia isn’t just about riding waves; it’s about conquering the environment, a testament to the raw and wild spirit of the mighty Atlantic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193985515-SU5JO5HD7YZ3L2EM6I5T/20240225-PALADINO-4250.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193988092-7Y6YGCZX2LFRAI0WYI7R/20240229-PALADINO-0313.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193991302-A91ZB4R64BG7JEVT2O8O/20240225-PALADINO-6794.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193999967-SGWWOHE6R9OZS3NEE3JG/20240301-PALADINO-3256.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740193994147-EU75BX9OQBAGFTG3F784/20240229-PALADINO-2397.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194323974-K8KQW2QXBUFQA3S6MXWW/Untitled-3.jpg Nova Scotia II Despite the harshness of the environment, the warmth of the local surf community in Nova Scotia is undeniable. The locals, well-versed in the challenges posed by their rugged coastline, always seem willing to lend a hand or share their knowledge with visiting surfers like us. Nova Scotians are proud of their surf scene, and that pride is coupled with a generosity that makes newcomers feel instantly welcome. Local legend Nico Mano, owner of Lawrencetown Surf Shop, invited us into his home, offering shelter from the cold and a chance to thaw out in front of a roaring fire and a delicious homemade breakfast. Stories were swapped, laughter shared, and a sense of camaraderie was built that transcended the chill in the air. “They welcomed us with open arms, and I’m so grateful for that,” Reed expressed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194003084-8NRJ5HIZBE0RLSUTT580/20240225-PALADINO-5674.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194008915-Q68TPYBSK1MI0LD5NLF7/20240225-PALADINO-4511.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194011809-BIB11DRTZY7UVGKMC0UW/20240225-PALADINO-9701.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194005902-V82QWCCHPRX02H1VF1BJ/20240225-PALADINO-5893.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194014988-7SI1BESHB5KNSWETDR77/20240225-PALADINO-5725.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194017784-4JBH1CCFU550BJ3FNTOR/20240223-PALADINO-1829.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194020967-3RCRQ75S7QI1ZFA3UDKZ/20240226-PALADINO-0246.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194023983-PKMAE07C9PJMK23STXRE/20240225-PALADINO-7803.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194030825-UK9ZOZQ6U60FKRGH60AT/20240225-PALADINO-5211.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194033139-VNVXDYI9D9LSBXMZPVTY/20240229-PALADINO-1737.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194039402-SU2FCROB3XK5632Z0UAM/20240229-PALADINO-0711.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194036810-GLEAZN74N4JF5A04G1VH/20240225-PALADINO-4445.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194046818-DJBBJ5MYR1MGN65QQZW0/20240301-PALADINO-3310.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194050368-5OKBZ1Q5FGWBG7AQ00NI/20240225-PALADINO-5395.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194355360-Y61OMVRXESXF1VKZ29EX/Untitled-8.jpg Nova Scotia II The challenges of the environment are met not just with individual grit but with a collective spirit that’s deeply embedded in the local culture. In a place where nature can be so harsh, it’s the warmth of the community that truly makes Nova Scotia special. “Nova Scotia has such a vibrant surf community. It has grown since my last visit, but the good vibes are still the same. The crew that surfs throughout the winter are some of the most dedicated surfers in the world, in my opinion,” claims Pete. Six-millimetre suits, lobster claw gloves, 8mm booties, constant heat blasting in your car, hot coffee, Crocs for the walk up the point, surf robes, hot water bottles, and many other little hacks were passed along by locals so we could get the most out of those fickle and frigid sessions. The locals don’t just survive in this environment—they thrive, and they’re more than willing to help others do the same. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194056577-0R0F831OR7SNP4YTXZ5Q/20240222-PALADINO-0325.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194058996-2Y9VLFIJMQW9EX1FURSC/20240225-PALADINO-5705.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194065212-KKQPW2ZWUJY1YYN1ODAV/20240301-PALADINO-3203.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194062625-EKEIXCF5CQ902XLLNJ2S/20240223-PALADINO-1771.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194068997-PJ9JPPZZQN5T9X0TEI86/20240222-PALADINO-9221.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194071222-7BHSIPDTTVB8GCPTGOUM/20240223-PALADINO-0647.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194075336-93DCZ4PVGWAQQRK5VFLU/20240225-PALADINO-5526.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194339236-JP6CABQI7K400FN53HX5/Untitled-2.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194077471-2SQUL2V4NQQNVUKHXEY5/20240223-PALADINO-1095.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194081453-IDVE6UF5QUXZM8WGOYIJ/20240224-PALADINO-3930.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194084113-L0I7FGJOX51A688EOMXZ/20240229-PALADINO-1091.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194087784-42VBPHWCALHNTYNHJCQI/20240225-PALADINO-6916.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194089795-M8PWXI8ZEANN9B4ERT15/20240226-PALADINO-8549.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194100614-BMAESIEFKN6DBJ0QUCGF/20240301-PALADINO-3107.jpg Nova Scotia II Nate envisioned a theme centred around breaking out of our comfort zones, but we found ourselves slipping into familiar patterns, surfing whenever the opportunity arose. “Wouldn't you know it? All those nooks and crannies we had studied on the maps went unseen as we walked the same rocks at sunrise to surf the same wave we’ve always returned to since our first trips out here. I guess that’s a testament to the inspiration behind the film...” Nate remarked. Despite this, he was still able to capture the clips and content he needed and more to make the movie whole. His eye for detail and passion for storytelling shines through in every shot. Creatures of Habit will be set for release this fall and is already touring. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194094401-ZJAF6J3UI7MB69YB0K26/20240223-PALADINO-1710.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194102629-NP12ESH7VFEWGVM9QBKE/20240229-PALADINO-1277.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194108769-RQVG4Q96O0O307PXQASL/20240222-PALADINO-0233.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194113275-T4PUX4L1KGNMSX3GBJY3/20240227-PALADINO-9732.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194107014-L2OW21XIPMF4RZOZ4CHB/20240223-PALADINO-1527.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194347125-Q1WCLWUQCLXB79NX1GWY/Untitled-5.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194115135-RA326Q6KRV305KLUMN0P/20240229-PALADINO-0240.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194119742-CY1IZVGYSAZS2UF93T6C/20240225-PALADINO-5839.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194121520-BY8QOVCILTOK2HLUDL4N/20240224-PALADINO-2812.jpg Nova Scotia II Scoring waves in Nova Scotia is a unique emotional journey, where the payoff is far greater than just the waves we surfed. It’s a feeling of triumph earned through patience, determination, and respect for the untamed elements. The anticipation builds as you navigate the challenging conditions—icy winds, unpredictable forecasts, and isolation. Each element tests your resolve, making every good wave feel like a hard-earned victory. The power of the Atlantic propels you forward, and for those few moments, you’re entirely in sync with the ocean, and the sensation is unlike anything else. The cold disappears, replaced by a surge of adrenaline and pure joy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194126124-VFBUL4CODEHWIBJGBKQN/20240222-PALADINO-9393.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194127939-HPIAJMRYGZHT73ZQ4FRZ/20240225-PALADINO-4667.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194139182-VJFBGCNEOQYRAKBQ5H0V/20240226-PALADINO-9414.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194141338-J9ESN0PH3FWQVD3I25ET/20240225-PALADINO-4315.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194145444-HL3834KXO7QZD0LM84AG/20240229-PALADINO-0631.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194147696-5OFWMSD5PZML278O5H50/20240225-PALADINO-7313.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194372299-SQDAQJ04CC4JKINJ13FC/Untitled-4.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194151830-MIAUK9EXRBQX89FRNUR9/20240226-PALADINO-9129.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194154430-LBRE6O2D10AKVBVVX16N/20240225-PALADINO-4262.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194158458-GEZ7O5HU3Q0OEDBUZNGI/20240229-PALADINO-0529.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194160859-XJCER7OMZM166OFLDZVJ/20240301-PALADINO-3029.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194164901-ZDZVCORLCI910FPES3DG/20240225-PALADINO-5411.jpg Nova Scotia II Buy this print https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194167605-1GJXRJK4H81PQU27VLCP/20240229-PALADINO-1307.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194171586-XK4AV55TZ3PRRD05C8QX/20240225-PALADINO-6304.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194174057-U2G02N1N9T5C3WE8YNI8/20240222-PALADINO-9455.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194178076-66PRS4ESGH9AUULWVMC5/20240301-PALADINO-3081.jpg Nova Scotia II The solitude here allows for a deep connection to the ocean, a chance to reflect on the journey that brought you to that moment. Every wave you score in Nova Scotia feels like a personal achievement, a testament to your perseverance. Afterward, the elation lingers, tempered by a sense of gratitude. You’re grateful not just for the wave but for the entire experience—the camaraderie of the local surf community, the beauty of the landscape, and the knowledge that you’ve been part of something special. Scoring waves in Nova Scotia isn’t just about surfing; it’s about embracing the journey, the challenges, and the emotions that come with it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194180588-IM7RXK2M6F7CSYQ00M1H/20240223-PALADINO-2309.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194184956-37IOR8WQA5BZC8RCMVXU/20240301-PALADINO-3020.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194187055-9Y192H53JJXHE2X5R84K/20240229-PALADINO-1403.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194192428-JV0MI5AOWVX1LHFWPW9X/20240224-PALADINO-2949.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194194678-UZGQ7PWTPHKYY1O0WVLT/20240223-PALADINO-2042.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194199164-WCFN6W78Y6YWGPQIEB3B/20240222-PALADINO-9626.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194201335-Z0MGO7YDXWIC5SMQQ8V5/20240301-PALADINO-3790.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194205940-D72643DR59J5DL5JZIDP/20240225-PALADINO-8243.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194207934-B4RVXVQCF7CKB7WF9GW6/20240301-PALADINO-3103.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194212895-6SIHJNE7T1T3KDSF952A/20240223-PALADINO-1260.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194214548-XA7J1OZUWYIQHMSZWLPP/20240229-PALADINO-2054.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194219521-W8O92JQKJWCCTM55IA34/20240225-PALADINO-4932.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194221637-H444U9J55AZ7866K62PW/20240228-PALADINO-9986.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194228478-MX5JD2433WYR4U1FMD6W/20240225-PALADINO-4185.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194226214-R7LLF3T6T25DKIQYGUI2/20240225-PALADINO-5930.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194232951-8US0D4NA4MUQ7QRZEA9M/20240227-PALADINO-9841.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194260307-QGWC2EXK7JCXYXRIETF3/20240301-PALADINO-3160.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194239652-Z980PK5DEACOX350E6X1/20240225-PALADINO-4829.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194364498-4ZX7OAG81A9UT85BXJWT/Untitled-9.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194253195-G33SEJI8XHHSO5774B63/20240225-PALADINO-4086.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194246386-JY7ZD9W0L3N6XKB8ZPDZ/20240229-PALADINO-2944.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194381892-5K4O2709LEQLY4IQT9XY/Untitled-7.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194249387-WV271ZL0PDU5M9N62A3P/20240225-PALADINO-5480.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194256064-CFRSB1R2TWGQEEVU8O9V/20240229-PALADINO-1035.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194262781-IZ7MDALT4CK6Q4S3BJOV/20240223-PALADINO-0783.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194269902-11EQPL8G9EDR571LMO7K/20240225-PALADINO-6003.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194273756-7WGHOOGQT1BD9KQFX7SC/20240229-PALADINO-2488.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194276707-TYZVIOH7FFOCD8HL04FS/20240225-PALADINO-5006.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194287916-JJLQ3Z9APY3HPI4OJWM4/20240225-PALADINO-5134.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194280969-EZS768PZJY4G962DN2B1/20240229-PALADINO-1576.jpg Nova Scotia II The waves here don’t just break—they resonate, leaving a lasting impact that stays with you long after you’ve left the water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194290755-V4R8NR0SFMV0MDHCJYMA/20240225-PALADINO-8151.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194295003-ZBBUFD64WOPAQFXYBXBY/20240301-PALADINO-3380.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194301924-R3YFJQZGGQRQEQE0CHF1/20240225-PALADINO-7172.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194305098-F3Y7Q60N8HFP5B47U295/20240225-PALADINO-6064.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194312282-DMJXMQY8J5MI2CIPL9U5/20240225-PALADINO-5441.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194308861-G0DB0HS1LJ26FI3LS0AB/20240229-PALADINO-2101.jpg Nova Scotia II https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1740194297948-U8J2M95RZ4NTNXXBNRO1/20240225-PALADINO-4541.jpg Nova Scotia II Various images and text were utilized for Tracks Magazine, Rip Curl, JS Industries, Sessions Magazine, Sidetracked Magazine, The Surfer’s Journal and Surfline. https://www.marcuspaladino.com/northshore daily 0.75 2026-02-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245180259-ILL6A4FLHBUMFS3RAMP6/20250125-PALADINO-3878.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245180259-ILL6A4FLHBUMFS3RAMP6/20250125-PALADINO-3878.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245184314-6L7KYQAX34Y2T3LJF8I0/20250126-PALADINO-8606.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245077019-INRFHQLZ49HU9NXJ6V5B/Untitled-9.png North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245190200-ELDFWVII5XSIN8DRWIHT/20250129-PALADINO-7954.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245118828-BTLW5C5J1MH4LQ91DB7O/Untitled-4.png North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245200334-47VYDI2KQNV9YP70G14T/20250125-PALADINO-4913.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245204963-8IR90MT92WHE764I9RUZ/20250125-PALADINO-4029.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245532561-YE5DB3OB6KMFCBE4Z8RX/20240408-PALADINO-1535.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245522127-YWDMEO45PFCQIG8GA8BK/20240408-PALADINO-2076.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245214958-LQBTGI3B26PYYEOWMEOR/20250129-PALADINO-2-6.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245210509-DZP9ZSB6GQYPD0FFUAK4/20250125-PALADINO-5682.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245220402-MCOHOBHMXG2CXHLCF6ZN/20250129-PALADINO-2404.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245224965-D8X2O7OS2K1X535HRJ44/20250124-PALADINO-8202.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245230287-WRRYUNLLDHFHJFDIY2PH/20250129-PALADINO-2218.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245234598-SSFSOPDRZBD8JOZ8STLE/20250123-PALADINO-6375.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245240415-GTGVBWTFV8MPJ17XER4H/20250124-PALADINO-7411.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245253602-8YGA0EOAXJE4WOELZZCL/20250129-PALADINO-6760.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245263549-HZZPST8DWN3NS7P6UG4H/20250125-PALADINO-4772.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245136085-3A6VOHVEY51EO5SAH1L5/Untitled-13.png North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245266714-TIKF0FEEYTATPKAF8QOJ/20250125-PALADINO-9386.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245273593-I5MNF92YM1DUWZ8YJU21/20250129-PALADINO-5840.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245277017-U77WC9QN2XDJKN6TYU61/20250129-PALADINO-8871.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245321355-8H9CBUKEVGM59C7GGDN9/20250128-PALADINO-1627.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245283512-IXHCSI0AI88G25T5NN37/20250125-PALADINO-2451.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245137963-909AIC6IKUMO1FCWN1CO/Untitled-12.png North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245286866-8EGO7TM1WSDGINYEUAUA/20250128-PALADINO-1385.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245296789-2CFP1MW9LVK73WO8OI57/20250126-PALADINO-8625.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245311594-4XEB8RH6P3VZW6HPALT2/20250124-PALADINO-6740.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245317737-6RB30D02Y8624RTRJXSH/20250125-PALADINO-3361.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245173675-37Y3KL0KPZCHBE0Z2P0M/Untitled-3.png North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245538995-VL1U7KFBVGQVFEN6HR0Q/20240409-PALADINO-3348.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245327361-Z1S3WY2ZLE80ZZ9UD6UU/20250125-PALADINO-1349.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245330707-L7R1DVHMH9ROYD8HTHZN/20250129-PALADINO-.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245336784-JXU21G4U8WNOZB302XYA/20250125-PALADINO-0195.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245340126-JB4M1003KVEYG1M8LFAO/20250125-PALADINO-2315.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245303653-RNTUJYHC2DL0XGD3CWOB/20250126-PALADINO-8544.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245346204-2QPUVNBNLJL9UAL67L8T/20250129-PALADINO-9485.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245349408-N4MFH97UIYW59EI3TB3B/20250125-PALADINO-0769.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245358562-O9U2WSUNBN3UPITPKE35/20250124-PALADINO-7346.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245355371-98M9CSTNVRMKCL8GEZR3/20250124-PALADINO-8184.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245364326-7914AQC4W2VC6N48DKZ4/20250129-PALADINO-3863.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245367600-IL8BEBWM7BC8VE0K0EVI/20250128-PALADINO-1247.jpg North Shore https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5634e75ee4b0ec6e5b329859/1768245530905-GZNV6TK3KIBLJPXIZRK5/20240406-PALADINO-0040.jpg North Shore Buy this print. 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